- I don't know about any spring clip on top of the battery. I have a ?73 Beetle and it does not have one. It does have the clamp at the bottom though.
- I recommend this electric washer bottle from Cip1.com
I got one. I use a universal horn button mounted underneath the dash for the on/off button.
I even added a second Anco universal washer pump to help get the cleaner liquid up to the squirter.
The original washer bottles that operate from air in the spare tire are a hassle and don't shoot out to many big squirts.
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VWC-BAA-955-449-A - WASHER BOTTLE WITH PUMP - OE MEXICO - INSIDE FENDER MOUNT - STANDARD BEETLE 67-77
Our Price: US$34.95
- I got this from John Henry's Bug Shop.
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Heating your Beetle A Primer on VW heat Prior to doing anything with your car, you must understand the dynamics of the heating system in the Beetle. Most of the air output from the fan housing is directed down through the engine cylinders, heads, etc. to keep the engine cool. When the heater control flaps are open, hot air is ducted into the passenger compartment under the back seat and into the heater channels to the front of the car. It comes out on the floor in the front and is also ducted up to the windshield via hoses inside the A-pillars. Keep in mind that the volume of hot air that is blown into the car is dependent on the fan in the fan shroud, which is dependent on the engine RPM.
follow this air path and check out the entire system. Engine compartment seal. "Fresh air" hoses. These are the cardboard or foil 2" hoses that connect the fan housing outlets ("arms") to the heater boxes. Even if you never want heat in your car, you should keep those hoses from the fan shroud in place to keep air flowing through the heater box (or replace the boxes with "J" pipes). Without this, your engine may run hot and you may have warping problems as your heads heat up. Heater boxes. Heater hoses. These are the plastic, insulated, flexible hoses that connect the heater boxes to the body inlets under the back seat. The should be solid, not cracked or warped and well clamped. Replacements are readily available. These also help deaden engine noise.
Ok, if all of those things are up to snuff, you can assess the inside situation. Now, while this is where most of the heat is usually lost and simple modifications can circumvent those losses and even improve a perfectly operating system?
My Modification An airtight hood-to-body seal is essential.
Check your door seals. Make an improvement to the way the hot air gets into the car. The tube inside the heater channel is almost never perfect, unless you've replaced yours, and it is only about 1 1/2" in diameter. Chances are, you are losing at least half of your heat to the cold exterior metal of the car.
?and if there are holes in the heater channels.
The solution is to remove the metal tubes under the back seat which route the heat into the heater channels (just break a couple spot welds) and port the flow directly into the passenger compartment using a 2 3/4" flexible fresh air hose. You can bring the hose through the old vent holes in the panel under the seat. I use a long hose that goes under the front seats, right to the front edge of the seat rails, since I rarely ever carry passengers in the back seat. You'll be amazed at the volume of hot air you get this way.
I just added a big 2 inch diameter fresh air hose on each side up to the rear kick panel. I have it sealed off really well where they meet the body. I do not have a defroster but I have gotten by the way for over 12 years. A can of defroster spray and a scraper is all I use.