NO CLICK - 73 Super Beetle

Headlight sw doesn't affect starter. But all Supers from '73 on used the same Rocker sw.

My bet: your "used" Ign sw is no good .

Try this test: Lift rear seat. On the left side, look for a plastic splice with a Red wire and a Red/Blk joined. Take a jumper wire and connect it from that splice to battery (+) post. (Be sure shift is in Neutral!)

If the starter cranks over now, it's near 100% certain the Ign sw is bad. Keep the jumper with you; if you leave the key ON, the engine should start.

Speedy Jim

I tried 2 rebuilt starters that I bought from a local VW shop before I discovered the common Ford solenoid fix that Berg documented some 30 years ago. The starter wiring through the factory loom is barely adequate. When the VW is new, there's enough "capacity" to drive the starter solenoid hard enough to mesh the teeth and still engage the main motor contacts. As the wiring ages, corrosion and dirty contacts result in a voltage drop significant enough to render the starter useless.

The fix is a simple solenoid wired into the circuit to provide battery voltage to the starter solenoid. When you turn the key to the start position, you are simply energizing the relay which need only a couple dozen milli-amps. The relay can then pass the full 12.6V and sufficient current to really drive the much heavier starter solenoid. These usually need

6-8 amps and any cheap little cube relay can supply up to 30 or 40 so they're plenty big enough. They also come in weatherproof versions - Delphi or Hella.

RT

.............gets the fire extenguisher handy.......

>

Good one! LOL Jim

P.S. (As Juper knows) The solenoid draws 30-35 Amps on pull-in.

It shouldn't draw that much unless the solenoid is sticking in which case it's likely to never engage with original wiring from the dash. I seem to recall the wires being on the small size, similiar to 16ga. That couldn't pass half that current.

My relay has been working for years and this mode was a factory fix.

Here's a few good links including one showing the original Bosch instructions;

RT

Because of the tricky Bosch solenoid wiring, the "inrush" current to get the solenoid moving *is* quite high. But it only lasts until the big solenoid contacts close, so #16 won't melt.

With the solenoid seated and the pinion engaged, a second, much smaller diam winding in the solenoid keeps the plunger "held in". The hold-in current is of the order of 5-10 Amps.

It's the high inrush current that wipes out the Ign sw contacts. They are so tiny that a lot of heating occurs which soon melts the plastic holding the switch together.

Speedy Jim

Have had one running for a week now with a 30/40 amp relay, whatever that means..... BG

I have an immobiliser fitted on ign & starter circuits, and lose quite a bit of oomph in the black box, it seems. relay sorted it.

Yeah, I know you can get round them by diving under back seat etc, but I hope to have a bit of frustration on miscreants part at least.

James

Maybe that's why Berg recommended the Ford solenoid (which looks like a miniture can) but I suspect it's cause they were cheap and could handle the elements a little better. His article dates back to the early 70's. Most cube relays can handle 40amp spikes and I've seen some rated for 45. That's what the 30/40 rating on them means. We buy them by the 500 pack at work (OEM part on class 8 trucks).

RT