No idle

Hi Ramva!

Yesterday i changed my engine with another one. Both 1300cc dp I've put in a new manifold, used my good alternator, heater boxes and exaust. And a new clutch assy. Adjusted the valves and points.

For some reason i can't get it to idle. The exaust, heaterboxes ánd valve covers are getting hot rappidly. So this gives me to think it is a timing issue, right?

There are 3 notches on the pulley. I've used the left one to adjust the valves according to this link:

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i using the right notch? Is this the right way to do it? Then again; poorly set valves might make it run bad but not this bad, am i correct?Am i overlooking/forgetting something? The timing is very hard to set when the engine isn't running at idle :( Any help is very appreciated!

TIA, Roger

Reply to
bug '59
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Perhaps. But I would check the idle cutoff solenoid(if you have one) and choke connections at the coil/carburetor first. If the cutoff solenoid isn't working(bad ground or no 12 volt supply) you'll never get the thing to idle right.

You need to set the valves at TDC on each cylinder. If you are unsure as to which mark on the pulley is the true TDC(and I wasn't able to see any good pictures on that article you linked) then you need to find TDC by hand. Pull a spark plug, rotate the engine by hand until the rotor on the distributor is pointing towards the cylinder where you removed the plug, and then use a short length of dowel rod or simliar tool to drop into the spark plug hole with 3-4 inches still remaining coming out of the spark plug hole. Then rotate the engine back and forth as needed to locate the position where the piston is at the top of the cylinder and make a mark on the pulley. You'll need to do this two times, once per two different cylinders so you have both a TDC and a BDC marking on the pulley. Do #1 and #2 or #3 and #4. Mark each one appropriately and then you'll have a reference for setting the valves on all 4 cylinders.

Good luck with it.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

Update! Today i was cleaning up the shop. Parts where all over the floor along with my old engine. Then i found two(!) fanshrouds, one from the old engine and one from the engine... inside. DUH!!

I'm just finnished putting one back in but due to lack of time i have to wait until tomorrow to see if this is actually the culpritt.While i was at it, i also changed the cut-off valve... man do i feel stupid!!

I'll post back with the outcome. TA, Roger

"bug '59" schreef in bericht news:4714e6e6$0$19307$ snipped-for-privacy@text.nova.planet.nl...

Reply to
bug '59

Agreed, the idle cut off is a good probability, or adjusting the jets in the carb. I must question this? You ran the engine without a fan shroud? That is very important for cooling, just hope you didn't overheat anything.

Have you checked compression on all four cylinders?

Make sure you have the right components also.. ie. 6v and or 12v. I assume you have a 59, so you probably have 6v electronics, unless converted.

6$0$19307$ snipped-for-privacy@text.nova.planet.nl...
Reply to
Andrew

Luckily i didn't ran the engine for too long. Just tried to get run. The fan is in place now, the valves seemed to be done ok and the carb and timing are adjusted. It RUNS!!! In the end the fan was the culprit indeed. (I changed the cut-off solenoid too) BTW it is on a '73 standard. Changed the AR engine for an AB.

Thanks for the advice Chris and Andrew Roger

"Andrew" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@v23g2000prn.googlegroups.com... Agreed, the idle cut off is a good probability, or adjusting the jets in the carb. I must question this? You ran the engine without a fan shroud? That is very important for cooling, just hope you didn't overheat anything.

Have you checked compression on all four cylinders?

Make sure you have the right components also.. ie. 6v and or 12v. I assume you have a 59, so you probably have 6v electronics, unless converted.

Reply to
bug '59

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