Oil Filter

Does anyone here have any experience on this oil filters? Do you think that there are benefits on using them or if we change the oil regularly it isn't very important?

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Jo=E3o

Reply to
joao_eliseu
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NO!!!!!

NEVER, ever put ANYTHING on the suction side of the pump, only the stock strained should be used. NEVER a filter! That's the dumbest aftermarket part ever!

What happens when the filter gets dirty? The pump won't get any oil!

Any restriction on the suction side is just plain dumb, and will only lead to a disaster. Whoever invented that dumb thing should be shot.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Thanks! I was thinking the same :-)

Jo=E3o

Reply to
joao_eliseu

OK i'm clueless here,

This filter is bolted on the underside (center, 6 holes) of the engine right? Or is it bolted on the fuelpumplid? If it is bolted to the center of the engine what harm can it do? There is already a filter in place...

But you are talking about the suction side, Jan. Can i conclude i really don't know what you are talking about? :)

Shine some light please... Roger

"Jan Anderss>> Does anyone here have any experience on this oil filters? Do you think

Reply to
bug '59

Right.

No.

There is only a very coarse metal webbing there, that prevents bigger particles from getting into the oil pump. That should be kept there, it doesn't restrict oil flow that much.

But this filter is much more dense, and therefore it will increase flow resistance to the pump even when it's new and clean. It also gets dirty and clogged very fast, because it traps smaller particles than the original web. And then it restricts oil flow even more. The suction is already weak in certain circumstances, you definitely should not put any more obstructions to the mouth of the oil pickup tube to make it weaker.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

"Jan Andersson" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net...

Aah, now it makes some sense to me, Thanks.

Roger

Reply to
bug '59

Hi! I agree with the others. Never mount a filter on the sump plate.

I used to have one of these:

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But I could not use it with my stock Beetle muffler that I just bought. I would have had to cut off a heat riser pipe on the muffler and welded it shut to get it to fit. I would have needed a single quiet pack muffler or somethin similar because of the clearance problems. Also some said a filter pump causes the engine to run hot because of the hot air coming out under the left side of the engine. I never had problems with overheating because I always made just short, not over 8 mile trips.

Now I have one of these:

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?product_id=3D573&zw=3Ditems Once a year, I still remove the oil sump plate. It has less residue than it used to when I did not use one of these filters.

Since this filter mostly works when the oil has heated up and is going through the oil cooler, I still change the oil at least every 1000 miles just like I would if there were no filter. This filter mostly works when the oil has heated up and is going through the oil cooler. But at least I have some kind of an oil filter. I never had any overheating problems with it. I do not like the oil filters that require you to disassemble, tap the case, and use hoses that might leak.

joao snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Jim347a

I think we ought to bring back total-loss oils systems.

Reply to
2

I've had a Gene Berg full-flow kit with the hoses and the tapping of the case on my engine for 4 years and it hasn't leaked a drop of oil. It's a high-quality setup. .....Larry H

Reply to
Mr Peabody

I think I will convert to the G.B. full flow system you mentioned. I have low mileage Type 1 engine with a low mileage Hecho en Mehico case. The case has, what looks like, a hex hole for an allen wrench where you tap the case for a full flow set up. I wonder if I can just unscrew that and screw in a fitting for a stainless steel oil hose.

Mr Peabody wrote:

Reply to
Jim347a

Jim:

Instead of paying $120 for the part advertised on the SEMA web site, you can buy a remote filter mount for $23. Quality braided hoses and hose ends will be the major cost, about $60, and then there's the machining cost. This is most economical when doing a rebuild or buying a new engine, since you can do the machining at the same time. I have done this addition to my engine and have not had any leaks.

For a discussion of the advantages of a remote filter, look at old posts found at Google Groups advanced search:

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At "Find messages with all of the words" enter: oil filter

At "Group" enter: rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled

Bob Hoover, AKA veeduber has some well thought out posts there.

Randall

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Randall Post

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