On disabling the choke

Some, if not all versions of the Muir repair manual recommend disabling the choke in order to save fuel.

My thoughts on that:

1) with the engine cold, you end up blipping teh throttle with your foot to keep it running. The accelerator jets squirts raw gasoline into the intake manifold each time, and thus you get a "pulsating" VERY rich condition accompanied by a sudden rise (and fall) in engine RPM. In my opinion it would be much better to have a steady, choke assisted idle. You even SAVE FUEL this way.

2) disabling the choke mechanism by "wiring it open" and maybe disconnecting the choke wire (You should), will render the choke mechanism motionless. While this may be "okay" for the hot summer months, you may have a stuck or poorly moving choke components come wintertime, when you need it the next time. IMHO, it's better to leave the system intact and keep the parts moving as they are intended

3) The "automatic" choke really isn't *all* automatic. YOu are supposed to ADJUST IT twice a year, different position for the summer and winter months. The choke element (round cylindrical thing on the right side of the carb, with a wire connector sticking out the middle) is secured in place with three small screws (slot head). Loosen all screws enough so you can rotate the choke element, and turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the choke. If you had the aircleaner off, and held the throttle open, you would see the choke plate move as you turn the choke element back and forth. Adjust it to where you want it, with the engine COLD. Experiment a couple of times with different settings until you get it to where you like it best. Allow the engine to cool off completely between sessions. (like, overnight). Tighten the screws up and forget about it for another 6 months or whatever.

Jan

Reply to
Jan
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Thanks Jan

So I guess you could ajust it way back, so effectivly you are using just a little choke in the summer, but the components keep moving freely.

Rich

Jan wrote:

Reply to
tricky

By doing that the choke is always on, no?

Reply to
Lorem Ipsum

you would disconnect the wire AND adjust it all the way back, taking the tension off the element.

Hypothetically of coarse ;-)

Lorem Ipsum wrote:

Reply to
tricky

Yes. But that's the problem I described that results from the Muir advice.

It was part of disabling the choke: you also jammed the mechanical parts open all the time. if you had the wire still on, it would mess up the bimetal coil hookup to the choke mechanism lever inside.

I can't explain it, take it apart and you will see how it works.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Yea, good point :)

Jan

tricky wrote:

Reply to
Jan Andersson

I have. We agree. I just missed the part where you said to ALSO turn the thermo adjuster to keep it open.

FWIW, my dual 44s have an incomplete choke; the plungers for the enrichment system seem to be in there but the area is capped off. I'd not mind coming up with the external parts to make them work. It would sure shorten startup time.

Reply to
Lorem Ipsum

As someone who has benn tweaking his Peugeot Choke for a year until his wife can drive it... I now hate carburatos and love Fuel Inyection...

Reply to
Eduardo K.

Eduardo, You do NOT hate carburators! You hate automatic chokes! You just did not realize it! I have had two cars (years ago) that were DOGS. One would sometimes just chug and chug down the road, running WAY too rich and bucking and making life miserable. When I put a manual choke on it, the problems went away! (that was a Chevette) I also added a manual choke to a '69 Nova because GM was having problems getting the "choke thing" sorted out. They were actually tollerable to drive after that.

I would like to figure out how to add a manual choke to my bug. The eletric choke does work fairly well, I just like the control that a manual choke provides. KWW

Reply to
KWW

I guess it would be pretty easy. Without thinking about it too much, so just an idea !

Run your self a cable to the choke, loosen the ajusting nuts, fix the cable to it somehow, when you move the cable it effectivly 'ajusts' the choke on and off ?

Anyone think this might work ?

Rich

KWW wrote:

Reply to
tricky

Who designed the choke on Peugeots ought to be sent to the guillotine. The element get heated by coolant (water). So far, good. But eh choke is also the highes point in the cooling system, and any air in the circuit rapidly finds its way to the choke, disabling it.

Mine, being 13 years old, leaks around a liter of coolant a month. I have to refill and bleed the system every 2 weeks or I find myself having to hold the car against the brake on red lights, or shifting to 'N' and seeing the tach go to 2500rpm :)

buy a brazilean H30 carb. Manual choke. US$100 plus shiping from chile :)

Reply to
Eduardo K.

easier to change the carb to one with a manual choke. my brazilian bug had manual choke and worked like a charm.

Reply to
Eduardo K.

Eduardo, Suggestion on where to get them? Also, I sure wonder where VW runs the choke cable. Could be in the arch over the doors (like the wiring, but a long way to go). Thx,

Reply to
KWW

maybe aircooled.net can sell you one localy. or I could buy one down here and shipit to you....

choke cable runs in the tunnel in brazilian bugs.

Reply to
Eduardo K.

Reply to
Ben Boyle

Yep. That was the first place I looked... he does not carry them.

Reply to
KWW

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