I'm about ready for the roof... I redid the header over the side door and completely finished the walls and added a little bracing here and there. It's really starting to shape up. I did one thing kinda wrong that I just thought of and it concerns the 2' overhang the shop will have on the front and back. Easy enough to fix, but I wish I'd thought of it sooner. Anyone know what I'm talking about? Latest pictures:
Yep, should have made the gable ends 3-1/2 inches shorter than the trusses so you could stand a 2 x 4 up and butt against the first truss. Not sure how to fix the problem though. If the gables were 2 x 6 you could notch them for the 2 x 4 's but they are 2x4. Looking good however. I just built my shop a couple of years ago and know what you are going through. If interested photos of my shop are here:
adding the overhang to the front and rear is no big deal, we used to build that overhang like a kneewall then nail it to the outside and the sheet that you overhang...common...but you should have beveled that fascia board on the sides, or waited till the sheetboard was on then slid the fascia board up to it...
What I was talking about that I screwed up on was that board... My dad has been calling it a "barge rafter" and the fascia board will be a 2X6 that will get nailed to the barge rafter. What I was saying I did wrong was that I should have extended that barge rafter 2' on each end so I could use it to strengthen the 2' overhang I'll have in front and back. And yeah, Chris.... about bevelling that board... I was wondering about that because as I looked back at the pictures I could see that it's going to be not level with the tops of the rafters so I won't be able to nail down the very bottom edge of the roof sheathing very tightly without breaking the sheathing. Hmmm.... I may just pull the "barge rafters" off completely and reposition them so that they overhang by 2' on each end and drop them down about 1/2" or so... I know what I'll do... I'll do that, but will take a piece of wood with me as I am dropping the board down and will lay it flat on top of the truss that I'm about to nail to and let it overhang passed the end of the truss so it will be in the same position that the roof sheathing will eventually be, then I'll slide the barge rafter up into position so that it just touches the bottom edge of that board. I'd like to get the barge rafters in place before putting the sheathing on just so I'll have them there kinda like a guide so that I can nail a couple of pieces to the front of them to catch the sheathing so that I know it will be in the exact right position. After the sheathing is up I'll use a 2X6 as my fascia board and I'm gong to use some 3/8" plywood for the soffit material. Something like that. It's cold AND rainy outside right now so I think I'm going to take today off from working on it. J=F8rn, I'm going to keep the shop pretty basic inside mostly. I'm going to close in a 12X12' section of it in the back right and put a couple of windows in that area, and will insulate that area. Going to use it as an office to work out of when I'm at home. Gonna put a small reclining love-seat in it, a treadmill, a TV, a desk, dorm-sized 'fridge, stuff like that. There will not be any plumbing in this shop. The rest of the shop is going to be pretty much just shelves up high for storage and some pegboard on the walls and a bench or two. Outside I haven't decided yet what the final siding will be. I'm interested in steel sheet siding but haven't priced any of my options yet. We'll see...
it will be better/stronger if you do remove the fascia board and overlap to catch the fly(barge) rafter that you intend to add.....(you don't need no stinkin plumbing, you are a man and live in the woods...)
Huh? How does any of that remind you of meth? Well, I made some adjustments to what I'd already done and then managed to get about half of the roof sheathing up by myself. If it doesn't rain all day tomorrow then I'm going to at least finish this side of the roof. I'm sore all over right now. Those damn 1/2" thick OSB sheets are kinda hard to get up on the roof by yourself. Or at least they are for me. :-) Here's how far I got:
If it is raining a lot, won't that presswood start to de-laminate and get messed up if it does not have some sort of siding or protection on it soon? KWW "Shag" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@d21g2000prf.googlegroups.com... On Dec 26, 12:10 am, "Joey Tribiani" wrote:
What I was talking about that I screwed up on was that board... My dad has been calling it a "barge rafter" and the fascia board will be a 2X6 that will get nailed to the barge rafter. What I was saying I did wrong was that I should have extended that barge rafter 2' on each end so I could use it to strengthen the 2' overhang I'll have in front and back. And yeah, Chris.... about bevelling that board... I was wondering about that because as I looked back at the pictures I could see that it's going to be not level with the tops of the rafters so I won't be able to nail down the very bottom edge of the roof sheathing very tightly without breaking the sheathing. Hmmm.... I may just pull the "barge rafters" off completely and reposition them so that they overhang by 2' on each end and drop them down about 1/2" or so... I know what I'll do... I'll do that, but will take a piece of wood with me as I am dropping the board down and will lay it flat on top of the truss that I'm about to nail to and let it overhang passed the end of the truss so it will be in the same position that the roof sheathing will eventually be, then I'll slide the barge rafter up into position so that it just touches the bottom edge of that board. I'd like to get the barge rafters in place before putting the sheathing on just so I'll have them there kinda like a guide so that I can nail a couple of pieces to the front of them to catch the sheathing so that I know it will be in the exact right position. After the sheathing is up I'll use a 2X6 as my fascia board and I'm gong to use some 3/8" plywood for the soffit material. Something like that. It's cold AND rainy outside right now so I think I'm going to take today off from working on it. Jørn, I'm going to keep the shop pretty basic inside mostly. I'm going to close in a 12X12' section of it in the back right and put a couple of windows in that area, and will insulate that area. Going to use it as an office to work out of when I'm at home. Gonna put a small reclining love-seat in it, a treadmill, a TV, a desk, dorm-sized 'fridge, stuff like that. There will not be any plumbing in this shop. The rest of the shop is going to be pretty much just shelves up high for storage and some pegboard on the walls and a bench or two. Outside I haven't decided yet what the final siding will be. I'm interested in steel sheet siding but haven't priced any of my options yet. We'll see...
Yes, it sure will. "Fortunately" our area is in the middle of the worst drought in recorded history (for our area). Still, I plan on getting the siding on by next weekend and if for some reason I don't have the time to do that, I'll at least put some plastic over it temporarily.
No windows yet, but they're coming. I covered all of the walls today with plastic sheets in case we get rain faster than I'd like to. I'm kinda tired of working on the shop for now so I probably won't touch it again until next weekend. Gonna take a week or so off from it. It's wearing me out.
I've worked on one or two roofs. Built a few houses. In picture shop47 there's one problem, which you may have already addressed.
Beveling that edge isn't the answer. There are two ways this is usually done. Make that three, with one being how that photo shows it. Which isn't ideal. You could have cut the rafter tails square, instead of plumb, then there is no issue at all. Otherwise, when positioning the barge rafter you need to place your speed square (or other straight edge) on top of the rafter tail and raise the barge rafter up until the top of it just touches your straight edge. That way the roof decking can be place all the way down to the edge of the barge rafter.
Or you could bevel it. But doing it this way means both the top of the barge rafter and the bottom are in line with the rafter tail it is nailed to.
If you don't address this problem one way or another you will have an issue with the roof. Leaving it the way it is in the photo means the shingles will have about two or three inches that are relatively horizontal, instead of properly pitched, which means that small area will be prone to leaks. It isn't a good spot to build in a problem since no other area of the roof ever sees as much water.
Hope this helps. Otherwise everything looks great. When you finish why don't you come to Texas and help me do a story and a half garage?
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 12:50:56 -0800 (PST), Shag scribbled this interesting note:
-- John Willis snipped-for-privacy@airmail.net (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
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