overheating vw new engine

just built a new engine,heads, case, all new stuff used those type 3 super cool cylinder tins genuine vw not aftermarket.i even put in those square metal bits on the bottom of the new heads"old ones didnt come with it",all the sheet metal that is supposed to be there is there.its a late style doghouse cooler with correct fan also.timing is correct and i used a lazer marked billet pulley just to be sure,new carb too.it idles like a dream and runs perfect"counterweighted crank also"new german muffler too.i have built many v dubs and never had these problems before.when i drive it over 5 miles it gets hot and it will vapor lock on me.dipstick is hot to touch and it was

60 degrees!i was very worried what this could be?i have racked my brain about this and cant figure it out.it is the smoothest running engine i have ever built but this overheating thig has me puzzled.i hate to remove the intake but i gotta see if i put more dual port boots and gaskets on the head if this would cure it but i thought maybbe a guru would have a magic bullet for me. only thing not new is the intake and it came off my last engine and i checked the carb preheat tube for blockage.any ideas guys?it a late brazilian case uo and a 009 with compufire modual.any help or ideas would be appreciated this 62 beetle is my main ride its no weekend toy i really have to depend on it.............thanks .........james
Reply to
Denise
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What is the exact oil temperature, measured after a hiway drive at a steady 65 MPH ??

What do you mean, "it will vaporlock"? Does the engine just suddenly conk out while driving at 65MPH?

Or, is it hard to re-start after a hot run?

More clues, plz.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Three things; CR (did we check???), timing (is it 29-32BTDC @2500+), jetting. You mentioned new carb. Which flavour? The H30/31 comes jetted for smaller engines. Usually 120main 50idle and thats too lean for a 1600DP.

RT

Reply to
Raymond Lowe

Don't know if you are running into the same problem I did, but it may be a lead. When I rebuilt a '73 1600cc dual port, it was running hot and acting like it was vaporlocking. I had installed all new parts.. distributor, carb, proper tin, etc... turned out to be corrosion in the fuel tank interfering with the flow. The result was the engine running perfectly at idle... but at speed it would run lean making it hot, and the intermittent blockage was acting like a vaporlock. The fix was all new lines, filter, and pump.. and blowing compressed air back through the metal line in the frame of the car to get the crud out. (without the fuel lines attached). The car has run perfectly ever since.

If this is the problem you may be able to identify it by sediment in the filter or carburator float bowl.

Reply to
Ed B

Tell us the oil pressure, please. Immediately after a cold start and when the engine shows signs of overheating.

(We know you've already checked the belt for slippage so I won't bother to mention it :-)

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
Bob Hoover

That was what I was about to ask.. you beat me to it :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Reply to
Denise

Yes, if you are using a 009 dizzy.

Set it this way, then see what advance you are getting at idle, so you know for the next time.

Bill, '67 Bug.

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

Just so we're on the same page. The timing is set above 2500rpm. As you're triggering the timing light and revving up the engine, you can easily see where it stops advancing. It will be somewhere around

2500 - that's just an average for an 009. Just keep the rpm above that point, say 2800 or 3000. It doesn't matter; as long as it's above the point where total advance is.

I loosen the distributor clamp just enough so I can turn it. Rev it up, see where you're at with the timing light, drop it back to idle. If you saw that was at 34 total advance and you're shooting for 30, just rotate the distributor until it drops 4 degrees at idle. Rev it up and check it again. Make any corrections. No need to prop your throttle open. 4 degrees is 4 degrees no matter what end of the advance curve you see it at. The 009 puts out around 19-22 degree's of advance seen at the crankshaft and that won't change.

Now about those .030" shims you mentioned. Are these under the cylinders? Your CR cannot be a guess. The components have to be measured and the numbers crunched. If you used all stock sized, unmodified VW components you may have dodged a bullet but it's not the way do it.

RT

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Reply to
Raymond Lowe

Reply to
Richard Hedd

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