Parts

One of the more serious retailers of aircooled Vw parts left:

Manifoild to head gaskets you can easily make yourself, get hold of a sheet of gasket material of some thickness, trace outer pattern, use a small ball point hammer to trace the inner dia. cut as needed.

J.

I've been buying most of my parts locally, but the shop I use does mail order. I think they do more mail order than over the counter.

Great place to deal with, good prices, and good quality parts.

As far as the no idling, sounds like the idle jet may be plugged. Very common if it sits any length of time.

Les

I thought only sad old buggers like me made their own gaskets anymore!. If you make manifold to head ones get a higher temperature type of gasket material. I used what looked like a thick brown paper, lasted for a few weeks then turned into a pile of black dust. Used a higher temp grade, been there for 5-6 years thereabouts ( sad old buggers also loose their memory). Oz John

Far from it. I've made them for my VW, as well as a replacement for the float bowl on my '70 Triumph.

For the VW, I'd just buy the gaskets. They're cheap, and the intake gaskets are metal. A complete gasket set is very little money.

Les

I guess I resemble that remark. I don't make VW gaskets because they're available local for cheap. We're blessed with good VW parts places here in NW Oregon.

On the other hand I make gaskets for 30 year old Japanese motorcycles since if I can find the individual gasket I need, it's rather expensive. Other than valve cover gaskets, most of the ones I would need for my Yamaha are only available in a full set. Likewise I ended up making a front case gasket for a CX500 Honda because I couldn't order one...

Tony

The idle problem is 99% due to the idle circuit in the carb being blocked or the electromagnetic solenoid not working. You need to get the carb cleaned first, before changing any gaskets.

Regards, Bill Spiliotopoulos, '67 Bug.

I replaced carb with a rebuilt and it made no differance ,it is possible I got a bad one but I keep thinking about those loose flange bolts that I tightened with out paying attention when I snugged them down.This carb doesn't have an idol solenoid.

Jerry

Thats an interesting comment. The bloke I get my parts from ( an old VW man for 35 years) mentioned that Beetles tended to use a "material" head/manifold gasket but the T3,s used the metal ones. (I may have that reversed, you know what I mean!) . Always seemed to me to be too darn hot for a non metallic item. Though as I mentioned a high temp material one seems to be holding up well in my trusty Squareback ( Stationwagons over here). Interesting with parts as well. I,m about 50 miles from Sydney and its quicker/cheaper for me to buy parts from the usual suppliers in the States than to get parts from Sydney. Enjoy looking at the online catalogues where shear weight prohibits sending them over. I suspect my Missus thinks I sit in here looking up less honourable sites!!!! Oz John

Nope. I'm another sad olde pharte who has no choice. I've got to rebuild the Kadrons because some moron used some kind of goopy shit and there's little balls of the crap in the passageways and it seeped in from where a gasket alone would have worked. Plus the float in one is crushed.

Except for the bottom gaskets, which I already made, the rest are paper thin. Not sure how to proceed. Neither are the NAPA guys. But I can probably screw up a dozen times before the backorder is filled, so why not try? Honest, I feel like I'm rebuilding an antique in Cuba.

For intake manifold to head gaskets, single port heads all used the little copper-covered rings, dual port beetles used the pressed metal gaskets, dual port carbed Type 3s used a paper gasket and dual port FI Type 3s use a paper/bakelite/paper sandwich.

I think both Types used a paper/bakelite/paper insulator between the manifolds and the carbs.

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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