Preventing main seal oil leak

I've been driving my '71 Super with the new 2276 for several days now.

It drives great but leaves a puddle of oil behind.

I have a filter sump installed. So I thought the leak might be from between the filter sump and the engine block. But this morning after driving to work, I noticed that the tranny cross member was wet. So it looks like the main seal is leaking.

I installed the main seal flush against the block. I didn't use sealant on the o-ring that sits on the flywheel.

Before I pull the engine again (ugh!), is there something I can do to reduce the chances of an oil leak?

Thanks.

Ben '82 Westy '71 SB 2276 dual 44IDFs yeah!

Reply to
Ben
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I know the thing is new, but measure the crank endplay *before* you take the flywheel off.

Check the flywheel surface where it meets the oil seal. It should be mirror smooth, no grooves, dings.

I like to put a bit of sealant (silicone) on the O-Ring because it not only seals but lubes it as you push the flywheel on. Without lube (you could oil it), the O-Ring often gets squished and doesn't seal. I'd be surprised though if a big leak is from the O-Ring.

When you take the old oil seal out, inspect the oil return passage to be sure it's clear.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

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The #1 oil seal does not install 'flush against the block.' Proper installation calls for it to be fully seated in its recess. This causes the outer face to be slightly BELOW the level of the block.

There's no mystery to an oil leak; you've provided a passage for the oil, either past the O-ring seal on the interior of the flywheel spigot, past the chevron seal on the external face of the flywheel spigot, through the oil seal itself due to a cut or puncture, or AROUND the oil seal, because you haven't seated it properly.

Yeah, I know... everyone sez to just hammer the thing in with a block of wood or whatever. That guarantees it will be flush to the block. It also guarantees there will be a gap between the bottom of the seal and the bottom of the recess. Which guarantees you've just reduced the sealing surface by a significant amount. (Another of those unimportant details that are fully explained in the workshop manual which no one bothers to read.)

VW used a special tool to press the seal into place. Easy enough to make, if you've got access to a lathe. (See the dimensioned drawing in the VW TOOLS file on Yahoo's AirVW mailing list.)

Excessive end-float, combined with even a tiny amount of scoring on the exterior of the flywheel spigot, creates an oil pump rather than a seal.

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
Veeduber

% %I know the thing is new, but measure the crank endplay *before* %you take the flywheel off.

Hmm. Good point. I also have a leak from the crank pulley. I'm using a standard non-sandseal pulley.

Could a bad endplay result in bad sealing at the crank pulley too?

Thanks.

Ben '82 Westy '71 SB 2276 dual 44IDFs yeah!

Reply to
Ben

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 08:32:46 -0700, Ben ran around screaming and yelling:

when you pull the engine(not if) also check the camplug...would hate for a leaky camplug to go cause you to have to pull the engine "again". Joey

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

%Did you put in one of those round seals with the 4 dowel holes between the flywheel and the %crankshaft, or are you one of those guys that believes the o-ring is an "alternative" to this?

I did and the main reason was that without it, the end play would be unachievable even with the thinnest shims...

Does that contribute to oil control too?

Ben

Reply to
Ben

Someone else told me that I could be having very high crankcase pressure because of the engine size which leads to the oil leaks. So I'm going to put in breather hoses in the valve covers and see if the engine still leaks a puddle.

But I've to go on vacation first. See you all in 3 weeks' time. I'm going to the land of 2CVs.

Ben '82 Westy '71 SB 2276 dual 44IDFs

Reply to
Ben

Ben

Oh - looking at it once more - maybe not - my workshop manual calls it a "gasket" not a "seal", and as long as the o-rings doing it's job the oil shouldn't getthat far.

- Tom

Reply to
Oldbie

flywheel and the

"alternative" to this?

The crankshaft and flywheel spigot got redesigned in 67. At this point the flat gaskets were discontinued and the O-ring started. You have to use whichever seal the parts were made for. No engines use both.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

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