problem bleeding brakes

It is possible that the seals inside of the brake master were damaged during the bleeding process of pumping the pedal. :-( Damage could be caused by debris inside of master esp. if the fluid was dirty. Do you notice any air coming out with the fluid?

Try rotating each wheel with the brake pedal depressed to see if that wheel actually stops. You need to isolate if it is the front or the rear system. Maybe that long brake line going to the rear rusted out and is leaking. You could adjust ALL adjusters to lock up tight and see if the pedal still goes very low. If it does you do have a problem. If not maybe you need to readjust your brakes. Happy Holidays! later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

Why were you flushing the brakes? Had you just done some other brake work? Just getting air into the system should not cause this problem. It should flush out easily.

I've never used one of those, partly because they are a solution to a non-existant problem (normal bleeding works just fine) and I don't trust them (they pull a slight vacuum on the brake system, and the breke seals don't work against a vacuum.)

Either your drum brakes need adjustment, or you have air somewhere in the system.

Start by telling us what you were doing that caused you to bleed the brakes.

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

-----------------------------------------------

you can't use vacuum bleeders on Bugs; let me re-phrase, you SHOULD NOT use vacuum bleeders on bugs; the wheel cylinder seals can allow air to suck in. Normal bleeding or pressure-bleeding are both OK. Sounds like an air-lock

A good pressure bleeder is $50.

john Aircooled.Net Inc.

Or you can build your own like I did, out of an old windshield washer reservoir :)

Works so great I will never go back to manual bleeding.

Jan

I have one of the vacuum gun bleeder kits and have used it on my 1971 SB many times and other cars without ANY problems. I changed the brake fluid on the SB about 2 months ago and the pedal is (as always) rock hard.

I have heard / read about others having problems w/ the vac. gun, and also read John C's and Jim A's posts about how they don't work well with VWs.

The trick/secret, if there is any, is to use low vac pressure, like about 3-5 IN HG. Don't go crazy and pump up to 15-20 or beyond to get the job done quicker as that most likely pull air in past the seals.

The vac gun set-up might not work as well with older, neglected systems which may need wheel/master cyl. replacements. I have only used it on cars where I have replaced the wheel/master cylinders, and then used it again every other year or so to change brake fluid as a maintenace item.

All the above said, I do believe that one of the pressure bleeder kits (from rocky mt & others) which attach to the reservoir are a better route to go as you can fill the unit once and not risk having the MC reservoir run dry which can happen with the the vac gun.

The pressure bleeder would also (I imagine) eliminate the possibility of pulling air in the the cyls. as can happen with the vac. gun when too much vac. is used.

=================================

" ..... I ain't no bandleader!!"

Allow me to offer this Rube Goldberg setup that worked perfectly for me. I had just blown the lines out with denatured alcohol, dry and clean--installed 4 new brake cyl's, new master cyl. I got two neoprene stoppers--one that fit on the VW reservoir--connected with a 12" piece of tubing to a smaller stopper, inverted, and stuck into the neck of a polyethylene brake fluid bottle whose bottom was cut away, forming a funnel. I then simply cracked the four bleeder nipples, attached clear hoses to 'em using four of my wife's least favorite coffee cups to catch the effluent, and slowly poured fluid into the funnel until the bubbles stopped, and closed the nipples. Worked great using gravity. It takes about the time needed to enjoy two beers.

Good luck--buzzy

'62 RHD Type 1

Jack Woltz wrote:

You don't even need the extra setup to do it this way. Just watch the reservoir to make sure it doesn't run dry. I usually just bleed one wheel at a time this way, but I see no reason why you couldn't do all

1. Your way probably just wastes a bit more brake fluid.

Perhaps you drink your beer faster than I do, but I'd have a hard time getting thru one beer (leisurely) in this amount of time. About 20 minutes for me. ;-)

If you really wanted to speed things up, you could use a longer hose and hang your funnel/reservoir way up at the ceiling. That would speed things up significantly.

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

-----------------------------------------------