Pulling off inner hubcaps

Hello -

I'm trying to check the play on the bearings on my '73 bus. I went to remove the inner hubcab to reveal the clamp nut, but there is a small, square-headed pin held by a circlip sticking out of the front left cap which I didn't expect. (pic:

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that the speedo cable? Can I just remove the circlip? (I don't havea proper manual yet..)Also is it ok to force the cap off? It's really stiff on the rightside.

Thanks!

Leo

Reply to
Leo
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Yes, that's the speedo cable. Just remove circlip.

The handiest tool to get the cap off is a claw hammer. Put the claw tips behind the lip on the cap. (There are "official" tools you can get for this too...)

You don't need to take anything apart to check the play. Just grab the tire top and bottom and rock it back and forth. Normal play (0.001 to 0.005") is just barely discernable. If there is at least "some" play, leave well enough alone.

Speedy Jim

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Speedy Jim

So there should be *some* play? On the front left it feels like there is none. Also it doesn't turn freely. And it makes some strange grinding noises sometimes... :) Does this mean I should loosen it?

The book I have mentions that the "thrust washer" should be easily moved. I have to loosen the clamp nut screw, then loosen the clamp nut itself to get some play, then tighten up the clamp nut screw. That right?

Leo

Reply to
Leo

I'm willing to bet that the grinding and not turning freely are related to the disc brakes, not the bearings. With the wheel off, use a "suitable" tool to force the brake pads away from the disc. Then check for free spin. If the pads won't retract smoothly, you could have a frozen caliper piston.

I don't like the "thrust washer" method of bearing play measure. It's way too inaccurate for the tapered roller bearings. Best is to use an expensive dial indicator, but the "rock the wheel" test is second best.

Speedy Jim

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Speedy Jim

Since I don't yet have the tools to safely jack up the vehicle myself, and the brakes started to sound very unhappy, I took it to a garage to get it looked at. The front left outer pad was dangerously worn, although the other three looked OK.

I watched the mechanic replacing the pads and it looked like he had to put a LOT of effort in to push that piston back to get the new pad in. The others seemed to slot in easily. He seemed to think it was perfectly OK.

Since having new pads, the front left wheel has been squeaking a lot. It still doesn't spin freely. Would this confirm your diagnosis of a frozen caliper piston? Whats the remedy - do I need to get it rebuilt?

Incidentally, I had to purchase the pads from a VW dealer since none of the local garages seemed to have any pads that would fit. I was charged

122 Euros (about 150 USD) for the parts!!! I have never felt so utterly ripped off in all my life. I didn't really have a choice though, since I couldn't drive on what brakes I had, and at least the VW garage fit them for free.... Even at that shocking price, they were the wrong pads for my bus. They only had what I think are the later model pads which have a different clip - this wasn't fitted, instead the old one was used. I don't know if this is especially bad, but after looking at the worn pads that came off, I know it's a bit safer!

Thanks for the advice.

Leo

Reply to
Leo

Wow! That is a rip!

Start a savings account for rebuilt calipers. Till then you can shop around for a good price. Maybe even mail-order them.

Best luck, Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

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