Remote start: problem 2

About the auto-choke, I remembered a possible problem to my remote start. I know , and correct me if I'm wrong, when the engine starts, the auto-choke coil is cool and closes the air opening to the air cleaner to feed a richer mix to the engine. When the engine worms up, the auto-choke slowly opens, the fast idle cam steps down. When I turn the engine off, the fast idle cams arm is still down. The next day with a cold engine, the fast idle cams arm is still stepped down, holted in place by the screw connected to the accelerator cable. I need to push the accelerator pedal to release it and let the coil close. In a remote start my foot isn't there to push the accelerator to release the coil. So it has trouble starting.

Question is: is it only in my car, or the coil should close without the press of the pedal to release the fast idle cams arm?

If this is normal, what options do I have resolve this remote start problem? One alternative is to disable the auto-coil, and connect one of the heater leavers to it, and open and close it myself, leaving it open after I turn off the car, but I would like to avoid this.

Alternatives?

Thanks.

MM

Reply to
Manuel Macedo
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Next time you shut the engine off, try setting the cam manually so that the throttle is riding high on the cam for the next start. I think it will stay there.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

The accelerator must be depressed -- once -- then released prior to starting. This serves two functions. The first is to add a jet of raw gasoline to the open throat of the carb. The second is to cause the COLD choke-coil to move the choke-plate to the FULLY CLOSED position and cause it to LATCH there.

On VW's industrial engines equipped with remote or automatic starting, The solenoid that performed this function was located on the RIGHT HAND side of the carburetor, at about the same level as the mounting flange, and was attached to the lever-arm that also actuated the accelerator pump.

When actuated there was only a quick CLICK, a delay of perhaps one second, then the starter would engage.

On the old upright engines the auto-starting circuit was conditioned by the oil pressure switch and the battery voltage. IF the oil pressure light went out BUT the charge-light remained on, it was interpreted as a Failure to Start and the circuit was de-energized. On some systems a second or even a third attempt would be initiated automatically with a delay of about ten minutes between each attempt. About 1967 VW's Industrial Engine Division introduced the 'suitcase'

1500 which had an all-transistorized controller, but I never worked on one.

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
BobHoover

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