Removing #2 main bearing?

Pry them out with a small screwdriver, from the oil passage behind them. You'll see what I mean when you look at it. They aren't on that hard. Be careful not to damage the bearing saddle. Don't use force, use leverage and small "nudges" at a time.

Jan

Do not insert a pencil in the oil passage and snap it there.

Ok, ok, sorry. That was unnecessary from me. I got carried away.

No, no, it was a perfectly good warning, given my past history.

ROTFLMAO

;)

Jan

I think Mike can take it :)

Jan

I hope you can... erase this unfortunate pencil event from your memory soon :)

Jan

The only solace I have regarding the Infamous Pencil Affair is that since the engine needed to be pulled anyway the trail of damage caused by the overheating has led me to find turned and broken small-end piston rod bushings, and worn follower bores. Also found a small inlet-hole oil pump in a big-hole case (to mate with the aftermarket and inappropriate "performance" cam). Of course I have already mentioned the discovery of a broken-off valve adjuster screw AND a nut rolling around in the bottom of the case.

I have reached the point of having a pile of engine parts, and needing to decide which to toss and which to keep and re-use. Building a new engine out of all this stuff should make an interesting summer project.

Don't you mean Weekend Project? ;)

Jan

I decided to lift the pressure off myself by getting another set of wheels for the Duration. The repair project has grown with every bit of disassembly so rather than fretting about not getting it done quickly, I reckon I'll enjoy the project better if I just take my time. I'm also working on getting a new stock 1600 to install in the Wonderbus, which will make this engine a "spare" for tinkering and learning on.

That's a good path to follow. Buying yourself time to do it right. That's what I do.. limited funds and time and all that.

I started building my "dream" engine in 1994. Today I carried the parts into my house from the garage (After I cleaned them up some). Piece by piece I have been collecting stuff, having some of it machined and altered, tailored to suit this particular engine.. last week I bought a set of new big valve heads that will undergo surgery next. Everything is still in pieces.

I have built numerous "lesser" engines (and one good Type 4) in between

94 and now, learning from each one of them. My 1600dp "experimental" engine has been torn apart every winter, more or less. (Poor bastard). Either to make further mods, or to examine the wear and tear caused by previous mods, after one full "driving season". (Ours lasts only about 6 months).

Anyway. I'm hoping to get this engine ready this summer. While I wait for parts or machining, I am also building a high revving

1600dp, to go on my 67. Yes, it's the same experimental 1600 that has already gone through hell :) This should be the last time... No need to "experiment" any more.

Jan

... meaning, the high revving 1600 will blow up so vastly, that it will be BAR ;)

So how are you enjoying the Honda? :-)

Honda. Bah! We scored a 1984 Vanagon/Westie with 64,000 miles on it. Keepin' it in the family if not in the cooling scheme.

Man that Vanagon internal styling was butt-ugly. Rocker switches and plaid decor. Ugh.

hehehehe

GRENADE!!!!!!!

Jan

CR = 9.7:1 on this little puppy. Mahle forged pistons, aggressively lightened and balanced stock rods. (which also have gone through hell). New Engle W130 cam, ported stock-based heads and a set of kadron carbs on it. Type 4 oil cooler. Full flow filter. Some oil galley & lifter mods and a 30mm steel pump. Nothing fancy.

Jan

Please keep at it, you are doing good! Plus the fact it is interesting reading, specially with this s**te "summer" weather we have up here....

J.

Do not use a 30mm pump unless you have rod mods/piston squiters or huge long line external coolers... triggers the bypass valve and passes the cooler = higher oil temp, ask me how I know..

J.

I know :)

Jan