1. Home
  2. Volkswagen, hot (Aircooled)
  3. Repost with a 79 convertable

Repost with a 79 convertable

Sent this the other day and something messed up. I couldn't read the mail until today so if you answered this post please do so again because I can't read any previous post. Strangest thing I have seen in a news group!

Thanks, Dan

Hi all, > > I have been lurking off and on for a while and decided it is time to get > fully engaged. I bought my wife a triple white 79 vert and it is pretty > good shape but I want to get it in great shape. > > 1st, it has a problem with starting. It seems like the battery is always > down and it needs to be jumped. Sometimes it may start several times in a > row over a day maybe 2 but then has to be jumped again, sometimes you can > shut it down and it won't turn over right then! . The key for the > ignition > and doors are different so I know the ignition switch has been changed > could > it be bad again? I have had the battery checked and it checked OK. I have > been told by some that there may be a problem with dirty/corroded > connections in the starting circuit. So where do I start? A new ignition > switch? If so how do I get the door locks and ignition to be keyed alike? > > 2nd, I want to put in carpet to start the interior rebuild (Outside is > great > as it is) What carpet kits do you recommend? I was looking at the Sew > Fine > stuff and like the kick panel and baggage shelf that have provisions for > speakers built in them so how is their stuff? > > 3rd, Thanks for your help! > > Dan > In Central Oklahoma > >
Reply to
Danny
Loading thread data ...

Doesn't start means- starter motor doesn't crank. (?) Do you even get a "click" from the starter solenoid? Do the OIL/GEN lights come on when key is turned?

Let's assume it is the Ignition switch. Here's an easy test to find out: Lift rear seat. On the left side, look for a plastic splice with a Red wire and a Red/Blk. Rig yourself up a short jumper wire that can go from the splice to battery positive post. Next time it won't crank, hook your little jumper wire up momentarily. (Shift in NEUTRAL!) If it cranks, the Ign switch is bad.

If STILL no crank, check the push-on connections on the starter solenoid.

OK. Back to the Ignition switch. The lock cylinder is a separate part from the actual electrical switch. (Thank goodness!) So.....you can replace just the switch and keep the old keying.

The bad news: Getting TO the switch is a HUGE job! Well, maybe I exaggerate a bit.

The best procedure I know of is on Rob and Dave's excellent site:

formatting link
It will get you most of the way. What is different on your car (since late '74) is the new cast security housing. This big casting slides over the steering column and has to be removed entirely before you can get the switch out.

Be sure to get the correct switch: 111 905 865L for late cars.

Post back if the symptoms are not what I described or the tests don't work.

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim,

Thanks, I am going to give the jumper a try. You are correct in that there is no solenoid click, nothing at all.I'll let you know how things go. It'll be a while as I am heading out of town.

Thanks, Dan

Reply to
Danny

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.