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running horribly rich

Here's the scenario:

1600 DP with a new SVDA dizzy from A/C.net, I believe it was a compufire pickup I installed in it (also new), the valves were adjusted and then checked after I started having problems and all was good. It started misfiring and gradually running rougher over a period of time (about a week) while I was installing a oil pressure guage, oil temp sender, air/fuel ratio meter and all the senders. Next thing I know it won't start and I find the oil smelling like gas! Drained and refilled the oil and changed the seriously fouled plugs for new ones and it fires right up. Problem is it will only run with the choke fully closed but the raw fuel smell coming out of the exhaust has basically gotten me nauseous (sp?). This carb has been rebuilt by me and set to the starting point as per several sites on the internet and also the rebuild intsructions. It's such a simple carb I can't see how I could have screwed it up. My neighbors and myself felt it was probably carb related but after dropping on a known good carb it did the same exact thing..... the only way we could get either to idle after the choke started opening was to turn the bypass screw many turns out. The volume control was set at 2 3/4 out on both.

I'm at a loss now...... the only thing I can think of now is the ignition giving a weak spark. I'm open to any sugestions though of course. Two things I forgot to mention, I replaced all the intake gaskets and seals and had it purring like a kitten about a month ago (had an intake leak). I also did a compression check with all the plugs out and got 160 across the board. I was almost hoping to see one low just so I would know what the problem was!

Thanks for any ideas/suggestions guys...... oh and Happy New Year!

Mac

75 Baja 70 Bus 70 Ghia
Reply to
Mac
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about a month ago (had an intake leak).

What were the symptoms you had that when you had a vacuum leak and replaced the intake gaskets? It sounds like what you may have now, an intake manifold leak. If the engine won't run except with the choke closed then it's getting its air from somewhere.(else)

Reply to
Mike64Bug

Well when I had the intake leak it wouldn't idle well at all but it sure didn't make my eyes water with the gas fumes out of the exhaust. Also I fixed the intake leak with all new gaskets and boots and have only driven it around my block a couple of times. That was about a month ago and the carb behaved correctly and allowed me to tune it to specs right out of every book I have read. This leads me to believe something else, which has nothing to do w/ the carb, that is the problem.

TIA

Mac

Reply to
Mac

Hi

It could be a float chamber problem, have you checked its ok ?

Rich

Mac wrote:

Reply to
tricky

If the second carb you put on was known to be good but you had the same symptoms then one would expect to find the trouble somewhere else. I was thinking that perhaps one of the gaskets you replaced starting leaking after everything had a chance to heat up and cool off a few times, i.e something loosened up somewhere.

Reply to
Mike64Bug

Yes. Just where is the air/fuel gauge installed?

Reply to
jjs

It might be a ruptured diaphram in the fuel pump. Then you have gas entering the crankcase, through the bottom of fuel pump, diluting the oil and filling it up. The overfilled crankcase will move this gas-oil mixture into the combustion area through different means. You should also experience oil being thrown out of the rear pulley.

Also make sure the idle circuit is clean, this also means that idle jet that usually gets clogged with some dirt.

Oh and I could be wrong, so this it just a theory! ;-) later, dave (One out of many daves)

SNIP SNIP

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Not likely because I have an electric pump that I tested a couple of days ago and putting out just over 3 PSI. Thanks for the input though....

Mac

Reply to
Mac

That's where I'm going to look today..... got too pissed off about it and had no enthusiasm for it the last couple of days.

Mac

Reply to
Mac

Yes checked that the float wans't leaking and that the correct sized washer was under the needle valve on both carbs...... I know it has to be something silly.

Mac

Reply to
Mac

I have a Baja single quiet pack and it is welded in right after the collector.... still haven't sorted out the wiring yet though. Not worth doing until I can get it to idle right....

Mac

Reply to
Mac

More than likely. When you find it you'll probably do a Homer Simpson. Doh!

Reply to
Mike64Bug

compufire

air/fuel ratio

across the

Reply to
Loosenutbehindthewheel

I have to disagree. The 34 is just as good as any other stock carb, in the kind of engine it was designed for. It was also the largest stock carb ever available, and despite still not completely solving the inherent undercarburation issue, it is by far the best choice for a stock or very near stock 1600.

People knock it mostly when they have compatibility issues with it and the 009 distributor, or worn shafts. BOTH can be remedied by proper modifications and repairs.

Basically, if you know what you are doing, you can mix and match any carb with any distributor in the type1 engine. But once you decide to make ONE little change to the original configuration, it gets a little hairy. Everything has an effect on something else. Can't change just one component and assume it will still work right.

Jan

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Reply to
Jan

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