Single carb on fuel injected DP heads?

I am converting a type 3 engine to upright to put in my bus. Is it ok to run a single 34pict on the DP fuel injection heads with a standard dual port manifold? If not I probably have another set of servicable heads, but I think these are the best of the lot.

Kevin

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Kevin
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I should not be a problem. The only thing on some of the tyoe 3 heads is some of them had a breather pipe installed in them. When you put the type1-2 tins on, the hole gets covered up. So either plug that hole good (don't use a rubber bolt thread cap for this job-don't ask how I know!) or cut a hole in the tin and use it for a breather box setup. Both the heads on my converted T-3 have the outlet so I used them for a breater system. And I highly recomend tapping the block for the oil pressure sending unit-not the cooler, it will make life alot better. I can be done while the motor is together and running. Mark Detro Englewood, FL

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Mark Detro

As I strip down the type III motor, I have come up with a few more questions.

  1. the upright dipstick tube, is close on the end. Do I just cut if off with a hacksaw? How do I keep from getting debris down the tube when cutting?

  1. The type III was fuel injected, and has some device mounted in the fuel pump hole, can I remove this stuff and plug a normal fuel pump in there, on its base?

  2. The oil pressure sender, I can see that trying to tap a hole in the cooler would be diffecult, how do I tap the motor without getting bits of case material inside?

Thats all for now, thanks for all the help I am sure looking forward to driving the bus again. (its been in the garage for almost 3 years!)

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

The tube should be removable where it goes into the block. you can bore the case for the dipistick at the type 1-2 spot and use a block off plate or there is an adapter they make that puts the short type 1-2 dipstick where the og t-3 was. It puts it pretty close to where the t-1 is but I'm betting you have to do some minor mods (drill a hole) to your tins once its all together. Mine is on a Baja so I don't have any tin issues. I have a new in package adapter from Bugcrap here that I will never use, if you aren't close to any shops or whatever and want to use that style instead of drill the block let me know.

You may need the actual fuel pump rod and plastic base but I'm pretty sure thats all you need to do.

I got a 1/8" NPT tap and drilled into the oil galley where it should be on the t-1. You can do this with the engine all together. (I did it with the motor in the baja still/all complete. Drill into the galley slowly, cleaning the debris as you go, before you enter the galley, have someone turn the motor over as you drill/no spark of course. The oil will pump out the remaining shavings. Coat the tap with grease and then tap the block I turned the motor over off an on while doing this also. And that was it. I used a long drill bit when I did this and I bet it would be a real bitch to do in an enclosed area so if you have a way of tuning the motor over on the stand it would be a good way to do it. Or maybe a right angle drill might work too. The PO of my motor had it tapped where the bolt that secures the shroud to the cooler goes. It worked but there was no room for a VDO type sender. I had to do some creative plumbing and it was alway causing problems.

Good luck! Mark Detro Englewood, FL

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Mark Detro

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