Spark Plugs

NGK is a good quality plug. So is Bosch. NGK is supposed to have better quality threads, that are easier on the fragile threads in our aluminum heads.

More important however, is to change the plugs at the recommended intervals, not wait until they fail. Less carbon buildup at the end of the threads, to strip the threads as you turn them out. Also only remove plugs when the engine is stone cold, that too helps keep the threads in good shape. And use proper torque on the plugs when you tighten them down. MOST people put them on waaaay too tight! With clean threads that allow the plug to be turned in easily with just your fingers: use a piece of straight rubber hose over the plug to guide it in and start the threads. turn them in with your fingers until they bottom out. Pull out the rubber hose. Use a socket to slowly snug them down enough to confirm they have bottomed out and just starting to crush the crush washer. Then tighten them another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, no more. The idea is to let the crush washer do it's job. (Crush partially to provide a good seal). Not to flatten it out completely.

thanks, I would add a little anti-seize compound on the threads or at least a drop of oil from the dip stick. and; To check out the wires open the lid and watch the engine idle at night. sometimes you can spot an electrical leak on the High tension wires.

Have a Happy New Year!

When I used to see Beetles a lot it was usually BOSCH spark plugs that went in the engines. Champion also was used on occasion. Then Accel used to make some spark plugs, but not sure if they were for the air cooled or just water cooled. The Accels fell apart!!! NOT GOOD!! I think there are other American manufacturers out there but I am leary of them all now.

I have yet to see a NGK or Beru in an aircooled engine, but I learn new stuff all of the time. lol

I just use BOSCH W8ACs in the Beetle engines. None of that platinum stuff, just the least expensive plug along with some anti-seize on the threads. I have not played with the gap settings much like increasing them beyond 0.028 to see what difference that makes.

JMHO

If your engine uses the fat plugs, then watch out if you follow the guides in FLAPS or other stores. At least one source recommends a plug that is a tad too long. The pistons will close the gap.

Somewhere long ago I posted the differences with plug numbers.

I gave up om that engine long ago. It's in the trash. Electric motor going when it's warm enough here in MinneSnowta.

I wouldn't put oil on the threads, as it will turn to carbon and lock the the threads rather than lube them.

Rich

Yes, I,ve heard both those ideas, that plugs should never be installed dry for obvious reasons but also I,ve heard that if you do use a lubricant that it will turn to carbon and damage the threads when next replaced. What I,ve done is use a high temperature copper based anti sieze compound but from about 2nd thread down to base of plug. ie tried to avoid any lubricant being in the combustion chamber. John

I used to use a little heavy wheel bearing grease on the threads with no ill effects. Now I use anti-seize for all the spark plugs even though I remember a warning about disturbing the heat conductivity or something. lol

BTW when would the oil turn into carbon? Under what conditions? Curious here! ;-)

a couple million years before it becomes diamonds!

lol Well if I can keep spark plugs in that long then I will start to use oil! ;-)

When it gets overheated & burned in or near the combustion chamber, especially in places where it can't escape (Not enough airflow or ventilation). Like in the plug threads.