It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When It idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I brake and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this problem.
not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or hit the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real slow and it stalls.
driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
| > 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or hit | > the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real slow | > and it stalls. | >
| > 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in | > neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall. | >
| | Put voltmeter on the Coil (+) terminal | (or the Blk wire coming out of Ign sw). | | I would expect the voltage to stay near 12V | even with brakes/turn lights on. | | If you get a bigger drop, move the meter | to the battery posts and repeat. | | You don't say what year/model so anything | further would be speculation. | | Speedy Jim |
On a '65 *ALL* power to the front of the car passes thru the Headlight sw terminals. Yes! Oftn, these get loose/corroded/overheated, which will drop the voltage to the rest of the car systems.
I did test it last night, the only reading above 12V was when the engine was at a higher rpm. At idle it was about 11.61V. With the brakes on and then the signal , it would drop to 10.9 or so.
I'm kinda going by memory. I wrote the measurements down, but I forgot the paper at home. Even at an idle, the battery didn't even measure 12V. I measured at the coil, fuse terminal 1, fuse terminal 8, and at the battery. At an idle none measured 12V, except on the generator.
| | | That was measured at the dash?? That's quite low (10.9), | although I would expect the engine to still have enough spark to run. | | Do some more measuring to see where the drop occurs. | | | | | >
Thank for all of the help Speedy Jim. No trouble cranking or starting. It will start right up. I don't have an rpm gauge on it, so I don't know what rpm it is at a fast idle. Before last night, it sat for 5 days. Sunday, I adjusted the valves and took it for a test drive. No problems starting up after valve adjustment. Then last night, started right up to test it. I will test to see what volts the battery is at with the engine off. Maybe the battery is going bad? But I figured, once its started, the generator should keep a steady voltage going through the system even without the battery.
| | Ah. Maybe a charging system problem? | Does the battery ever go flat that it has trouble cranking the engine? | | At a fast idle (maybe 1000 RPM), the voltage right at the | battery should be a minimum of 13.5V. More typically, | it would be around 14V. | | | | | >
| > | | > | | > | That was measured at the dash?? That's quite low (10.9), | > | although I would expect the engine to still have enough spark to run. | > | | > | Do some more measuring to see where the drop occurs. | > | | > | | > | | > | | > | >
Here's a link to the voltage test I ran tonight. I also noticed the longer it idles, the voltage gets lower. The more I turn on (lights, press brakes, turn signal) all together it will eventually stall.
As Tricky noted, it doesn't appear to be charging, though these readings were at idle and a genny doesn't put out much then.
It's a pain, but you should make readings at the terminals on the Headlight switch. All the ones with Red wires. As I explained, the sw terminals were used to distribute ALL power.
Still, 11V to the Coil *should* be plenty. By chance are you running any kind of electronic ignition?
Oh, I knew I forgot to test something, the headlight switch. Maybe the switch is going bad. I will test it. No electronic ign. all stock. The only other thing I did within the past month was change the rotor, cap, and wires. Bosch rotor and cap. Wires are Brazilian.
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| | | As Tricky noted, it doesn't appear to be charging, | though these readings were at idle and a genny doesn't put out much then. | | It's a pain, but you should make readings at the terminals on the | Headlight switch. All the ones with Red wires. As I explained, the | sw terminals were used to distribute ALL power. | | Still, 11V to the Coil *should* be plenty. By chance are you | running any kind of electronic ignition? | | Jim | | | | >
| >
| >>Thank for all of the help Speedy Jim. | >>No trouble cranking or starting. It will start right up. I don't have an | >>rpm gauge on it, so I don't know what rpm it is at a fast idle. Before | >>last | >>night, it sat for 5 days. Sunday, I adjusted the valves and took it for a | >>test drive. No problems starting up after valve adjustment. Then last | >>night, started right up to test it. I will test to see what volts the | >>battery is at with the engine off. Maybe the battery is going bad? But I | >>figured, once its started, the generator should keep a steady voltage | >>going | >>through the system even without the battery. | >>
| >>
12V. | >>I | >>| > measured at the coil, fuse terminal 1, fuse terminal 8, and at the | >>battery. | >>| > At an idle none measured 12V, except on the generator. | >>| >
| >>| | >>| Ah. Maybe a charging system problem? | >>| Does the battery ever go flat that it has trouble cranking the engine? | >>| | >>| At a fast idle (maybe 1000 RPM), the voltage right at the | >>| battery should be a minimum of 13.5V. More typically, | >>| it would be around 14V. | >>| | >>| | >>| | >>| | >>| >
| >>| > | | >>| > | | >>| > | That was measured at the dash?? That's quite low (10.9), | >>| > | although I would expect the engine to still have enough spark to | >>run. | >>| > | | >>| > | Do some more measuring to see where the drop occurs. | >>| > | | >>| > | | >>| > | | >>| > | | >>| > | >
"Eddie" schreef in bericht news:M69ph.61350$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net...
Hey Eddie, Nice ride,
It looks like it had an engine fire once, am I correct? If so, is it possible the fire did some damage to the wires? (or at least the ones you didn't change already)
Thanks Roger, Pretty much still original. Except the engine and trans. One of the PO's had the fire. Didn't look that big of one and not too much damage. I bought it like that, no biggy to me, can all be fixed. Been running fine up until about a week ago.
Thanks Roger, Pretty much still original. Except the engine and trans. One of the PO's had the fire. Didn't look that big of one and not too much damage. I bought it like that, no biggy to me, can all be fixed. Been running fine up until about a week ago.
Well, last night I started it up, let it warm up a bit so the choke would turn off. I was getting ready to check the headlight sw terminal and I noticed the idle was getting slower. Then I noticed the gen light was coming on. So yes, it is definitely a charging problem. It drained the battery enough last night to the point of not starting.
So maybe it was the generator all this time. Should I just break down, buy a new generator, first try and change the brushes?
btw, I have to use google to view and respond to messages. My news server is not retrieving messages. Anybody else having this problem?
One thing that no one seems to have mentioned... under load the gen will require more torque to rotate. This might explain why when you press the brake (or turn on other electricals) your idle is dropping. But it should not be so bad that it stalls the engine.
One note here, if your battery is not fully charged (it sounded like yours was drained) you may get a false low voltage reading. The low batt could be bringing down the measured voltage. This might get you thinking that the gen/reg is bad, when in fact the batt is at fault. Charge the batt before any testing, or borrow a known good batt.
Did you check the voltage at the HL sw as Speedy Jim mentioned? It is the closest dash connection to the gen/reg. From there all other items get their power including the ignition circuit. If this is low, the wiring from the reg may be leaching some power. Take a measurement at the reg term (B+) to judge the loss.
Also, I don't think you mentioned what the voltage was if you raised the engine RPMs to a fast idle? Try taking a measurement at the B+ term of the reg w/ the RPMs raised. As Jim mention, at idle the gen/reg doesn't put out a whole lot (sometimes less than 12v). You want to confirm that at fast idle (1500-2000rpm) there is at least
13.5v at the batt to recharge and run all your electricals. More than
14v and your regulator is probably bad. If you are getting 13.5v or more at the reg (13.8v is norm), try measuring at the batt next. Less than 13.5v and you run the risk that your batt is being discharged/drained.
If you can jump/kick start your car you can disconnect the neg lead at the batt and then take a measurement. Be careful not to ground the + lead. With the batt disconnected you will be measuring gen output only (minus a small load from the ignition and such). As you raise the idle the reg should output 13.5v, or more. Less than that and you have a bad gen or reg.
To test the gen, disconnect both wires from the reg and ground the DF wire. Start the car and measure the voltage between the D+ term and ground (don't do this for more than a few second or you risk burning out your gen). You should see something like 35v, or more. If so, your gen is good and your regulator is bad. If you don't get around
35v, maybe it's time to upgrade to an alternator? (unless you want it all original looking)
Thanks AshMan, I will have to charge the battery first. I am also going to clean the commutator and replace the brushes before I start. I don't know if that has ever been done.
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