Timing/idle and a 34pict3

Well, I can't fault any steps you've taken.

But there is absolutely no reason that the 009 won't idle. 009's may have other faults, but idling isn't one.

What I'm trying to say is I think you're looking in the wrong places for a fix for bad idle.

If you keep the dual vac unit, check that both sides work by sucking on each hose and watching the advance plate move to the stop(s). Also, using a strobe light, you should see the timing come off the retard side toward advance as soon as the throttle begins to open a small amount.

In my experience, the 34 has poor idle (or transition from idle) due to tiny particles in the idle circuits. Most difficult are the 4 teeny weeny ports just above the throttle plate.

My $.02

Speedy Jim

I bought the dual vac unit because that is what was supposed to be there. I had the same idling problems with the 34 pict3 and the 30/31 it replaced. I had read so much bad about the 009 that I just didn't want it anymore. I have never had anything but problems with the idle on a VW, so maybe it's just me. Is there any way to fix the rotor point 90 degrees out from the notch on the distributor? I know it shouldn't matter as long as the firing order is correct, 1-4-3-2, but it 'bothers' me.

Yes, I understand the dual vac was original. And working correctly (and carb too) it makes for a very responsive engine.

To correct the rotor position, the distributor drive must be removed, turned and dropped back in. Tricky, as the tiny washers can get lost in the process.

Well, I hope you have luck with the idle.

Jim

The cap and rotor are the same for the two distributors aren't they?

I believe so.

a man to fish.

What about the fuel pressure? You mentioned a new fuel pump. You just can't bolt one on and cross your fingers. Even assuming the push rod is the correct one for the style of pump, the drive shims could have the rod way too high, resulting in excessive pressure. This could overcome the needle valve and result in excessive fuel level causing the black smoke and poor running.

Get a gauge. They're cheap. Shoot for 2 1/2 lbs. Shim the pump with gaskets or grind the rod if necessary. I fashioned a little jig to clamp onto a bench grinder which keeps the rod 90 deg to the side of the stone wheel. Roll the push rod with your finger as you lightly grind the end down. It's not difficult to get good results doing it this way.

Pack the bottom of the fuel pump with grease per the manuals.

Where did the carburetor come from, and what brand is it? It sounds as though you have connected the advance/retard lines correctly, and one way to know for sure is to put a timing light on #1 and open the throttle slightly when running at idle, choke fully opened. The timing mark should immediately advance. If it doesn't you have a problem, most likely with the distritbutor.

I went through two brand new 34pict-3's in a row that had ill-fitting throttle shaft bushings and both overfueled, new out of the box. If you got one of the "Pierburg" carbs, good luck. I had no luck and sent them both back for a refund.

The black smoke you report would certainly implicate overfueling, and even if the timing was way off, so long as the engine is running you should be able to bottom out the mixture screw(the smaller of the two adjustement screws) and kill the engine. If you can't, there is something going on with your carburetor and/or fuel pump that needs to be addressed.

You are sure the choke is opening, right? It's got 12 volts and it opens up?

Chris

In order for the advance to work properly, and for the idle mixture screw to be responsive, you must adjust the throttle lever as following.

Unscrew the throttle lever positioning screw all the way out, until the throttle plate closes fully. Then you turn the throttle lever positioning screw in until it just touches the fast idle cam, in the low idle/fully warmed position. Now you will need a cheap vacuum gauge connected to the left vacuum signal port of the carb. Continue to turn in the throttle lever positioning screw, until you just begin to read some vacuum, then go back until you just see no vacuum. Now you can adjust the idle speed with the large adjusting screw to the left of the carb (bypass screw) and the mixture screw (the small one on the left, next to the bypass screw).

The previous adjustment is critical for the following reasons.

1) It ensures you have no vacuum signal to actuate the vacuum advance when the engine idles. 2) It ensures the throttle butterfly is closed enough to permit the idle circuit in the carb to work. 3) It holds the butterfly opened just a bit, so that it doesn;t bind on the carb body.

Bill Spiliotopoulos, '67 Bug.

I'll try to set the throttle arm this way this weekend. I have never heard of this method before, but sounds like it makes sense.

the carburetor came from a local vw specialty shop and is supposed to be a "brand new" Brosol. I too have heard of the nightmares from the Pierbergs.

To make matters worse, when I went back out to work on it some more after posting this original message, the starter died on me! "Sonny" is slowly starting to look more like "Christine"!

Thanks for all the responses.