Torsion tool for spring plates

Hey guys,

I'm gonna change out my spring plate bushings on my '69 Bug this weekend, and was wondering, is it better to use the jack and chain, or the torsion tool?

This all started when my axle shaft wouldn't come out of the trailing arm during rear bearing replacement, despite a sledgehammer and then I even tried heat. Anyway I found a good used trailing arm and replaced the rubber bushings and rear wheel bearings. I figured since I already had the rear suspension torn apart, that I may as well replace the spring plate bushings (the rear wheels sit at an angle, negative camber, when on the ground, but when the rear is raised, they straighten up). So, I was looking for some advice on the rear spring plates, to use a torsion tool or not...

And another question--the outer bearing on my good used trailing was seated pretty firmly in the housing, yet the bearing on my other trailing arm fell right out.....is that a problem, maybe a worn bearing housing in the trailing arm??

Ok, sorry for all the questions, thanks for any advice!

Dane Tyler '69 Bug '63 Bug

topside of the tool usually has a sort of cup that faces downward which fits over the bodybolt (mounts to shock tower) found up in the fenderwell. You just put the plate between the slots on the bottom part of the tool and start screwing. Once your sitting in front of the rear assy with the tool in your hand, it should become pretty apparent. sometimes the large wingnut can be a pain, I keep a same sized nut and wrench close depening on bigger bars or if I am raising the car for for offroad. Mark Detro Englewood, FL

When I replaced my torsion bars and what not I used the chain and jack method with no trouble. Just be sure to set it up with no slack in the chain or the car will rise as the jack is applied. If you have to, put a piece of plywood under the jack to make up the distance if the jack floats. You want the jack to be stable on the ground! Use a large chain those torsion bars are tough! Be sure to check the car for level when done. Use a magnetic angle guage to ensure the starting angles (preload) are the same and then check the level with the weight of the vehicle after. You will need to allow the car to roll a few feet to ensure the wheels are at a natural stance.

Good luck John

I use one of the strut spring compressor tools with one bolt in the shock tower and one on the spring plate. This makes the job real easy nothing that can slip or get in the way, and no chance of the car raising.

Mario