RON = Road Octane Number. There are different ways for figuring out octane of fuel, but in the U.S. the RON and the accepted way. I wish we could get 92 RON such as what P.J. Berg is able to get, but, unfortunately, with California's oxygenated fuels, the best we can get is 91 RON, and that ain't all that good, with all the crap they stick in it. The advice about running it at as high an advance as you can without detonation (pinging) is a good one, but I always err of the side of caution by a few degrees. I am not getting maximum performance, to be sure, but if I get caught at a malfunctioning stoplight in Southgern California in July or August, it takes the worry out of being close.And I have a personal distaste for the 009 distributor, I prefer an old 010, or a GERMAN-MADE 009 (getting a little hard to find in good shape nowadays) or one of the Mallory units like snipped-for-privacy@aircooled.net sells. When it's really important to me, like on my 2 liter with P&P big-valve heads, Weber 48 IDA's, and other neat stuff (spelled $$$$$) that I can't afford to screw up, I bite the bullet and go with an MSD.Then I run right on the ragged edge ( 32-33 degrees advance) but knock it down a little (around 30 degrees) if I am planning a long-distance trip, or during the warmer summer months. When I can afford it, (and thats not real often) I like to stick some good, 5 dollar-a-gallon, VP 116 octane Race Gas in it, bump the timing to 36 degrees, and let 'er rip. I can feel the difference with the race gas, but thats too expensive for a daily diet. I feel for the people in the European countries that pay that much for an Imperial gallon of fuel (I don't know the percentage, but I know it's less than a U.S. gallon) Of course, cam, compression, amount and type of headwork done, type of piston, all factor into the timing, if you have a modified engine.. then you pretty much run it til it pings, take a few degrees out of it, and "leveritethere"