What sort of mileage do you guys get?

Just wondering how many miles you guys get out of a tank? I have a

1600 1302s 1971 semi auto. I've been tuning mine myself and it never seems to be right. Runs perfect one day and won't idle the next, but also seems to cost quite a bit of gas. How much difference would a bad tune make to fuel consumption percentage wise. I know it's a guess. I filled it up today. 25litres got me 106 miles. Don't know how much that is in gallons. I'm from New Zealand. Cost $40 NZD On a side note, I left work a couple of weeks ago, and as a leaving present they got me a stereo with a 4 inch screen, plays DVD's TV, has a night vision backing camera, bluetooth, you name it. I can fit around 1400 mp3's on one DVD. Sweet. I guess they were so happy to see me go...
Reply to
scream
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Scream, I've got at 71 autostick too and find the mileage very poor. Proabably because we really only have forward gears. It improves if you set the valves regularly and make sure the points are gapped properly, but we're not getting 30 MPG anytime soon. With 4liters per gallon (imp gallon) you are getting about 18MPG. I'm about the same. My bug is extra heavy because of the 500lbs of frame stiffening metal added to the vert.

Reply to
71 1302 vert

I try not to drive as much, and use the motorcycle more. it's Air Cooled too. Wind blows over the cylinder fins when moving along.

Reply to
A Veteran

Our 69 Auto Stick K.G. used to get 22 MPG. With the "new" gasolines sold in California it now gets 18 MPG. Somehow the "green" gasoline is not as efficiently utilized.

Is there any politician that has ever had a "real" job? It is said that if grab a politician and shake the $hit out of them, there is nothing left but lips and a briefcase...

Homer

Reply to
Homer

Thanks for your replies guys. I thought I was way off the mark, so good to know I'm in good company. Andrew

Reply to
scream

With normal unleaded fuel, you should need about 15 litres for 106 miles of highway cruising with a steady 70-75 mph.

25 litres for 106 miles is too much, even for city driving.

Are you sure all cylinders are firing? Have you checked the advance curve with a timing light? You should set the ignition timing as much advanced as it takes before it starts pinging on high load, high heat conditions. Advance in steps of 0.5 degrees until you notice pinging, the retard 1.5 degree from that point.

If you have replaced the original carb, or have changed the CCs of the original engine on which the carb was matched with, then you should re-jet your carb's main jet. You try smaller and smaller jets (eg 140, 135, 130, 127.5, 125, 122.5 ), until you begin to feel that the engine has a flat spot at around 2000-2500 rpm when accelerating. Then you go back to the last good size. Next adjust idle speed according to the procedure given may times in this newsgroup in the past. Also adjust the valves and do a compression test.

If all these are ok, check for brakes dragging, or wheel bearings needing replacement.

The "green" fuel is no green at all. It has considerably less energy in it, so you need to burn much more to get the same amount of work done, thus emitting more CO2. It is considered a preburnt fuel, (alcohols already contain oxygen atoms in their molecules), so you emit more CO2 than you do for the same amount of work when burning hydrocarbons.

Bill Spiliot>>

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

In Minnesota USA there are at least two gasoline formulas, a general season and a "winter" formula. You know the old saying YMMV, but it sucks.

E85 is a dollar cheaper than dino-juice here (at least yesterday) because people are not buying it. It's super inefficient crap. Besides, some farmers in this rural community ain't buying into the whole Corn for Fuel scam. It's killing their lifestock market.

Reply to
jj

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