1. Home
  2. Volkswagen, hot (Aircooled)
  3. Wiring Problem

Wiring Problem

Hi all. I have a 1965 Type 1 (South African Edition) which was rebuilt in

2001. However, I have run into a wiring problem. The car runs fine until I put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition switch heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the headlight relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also heats up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the switch heat up. None of the fuses blow.

To remedy the problem, I have tried the following. Firstly, I thought one of the bulbs might be faulty, so I replaced both (H4 55/60). No dice. I thought that one of the headlight units might nbe shorting, so I connected the bulbs directly. That didn't work either. So, I put another ignition switch. No change. I changed the light switch and I put in a new wire from the battery to the ignition switch, sufficient to carry 30 amps. Still no change. I ran a new hot wire to terminal 30 on the headlight relay. No change.

Then, terminal 30 on the relay came off and the lights still worked. As far as I am aware, this should not be happen. So I swapped out the headlight relay with another one. This relay also powered the lights without terminal

30 connected. I'm stumped. What can I try next? Replace the cables from the fuse box to the headlights? Somebody told me that one of the cables in the car might have high resistance.

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Regards, Elvin

Reply to
Elvin Rambaran
Loading thread data ...

Overheating at those switch terminals is a common problem. The design of the switch is poor and the connections at the terminals and inside the switch generate too much heat due to resistance.

You might consider using a heavy-duty toggle switch for the headlights.

Term #30 on the dimmer relay is used to "flash" the hi-beams when the headlights are not in use. It is not necessary to have this connected to the Ignition switch; just jumper 30 to 56.

Speedy Jim

formatting link

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Hi Jim. Even if I bypass the switch and join the wires, the wires still heat up. So, not a switch problem. However, I will follow your suggestion and replace the switch to avoid other problems in the future.

Regards, Elv>

Reply to
Elvin Rambaran

Hi. Thanjks for the suggestion. I did try grounding the earth wire directly to the battery, but no dice. I will now replace all the wires from the fuse box onwards and see what happens.

Reply to
Elvin Rambaran

With H4 55/60 watt headlights you should probably have a separate relay installed for the lights. Run a 10 gauge (fused) wire directly from the battery to the relay and use the feed from the headlight switch to energize the relay. Feed the lights from this relay (just like you would do if installing aftermarket fog lights). I doubt the wiring system in 1965 was designed to carry the load of these lights.

Reply to
Erik Dillenkofer

Thanks Erik. The wiring was all replaced in 2001. But yes, it does make sense to use a relay. Will do so this evening and report back.

Regards, Elvin

installed for the lights. Run a 10 gauge (fused) wire

switch to energize the relay. Feed the lights from this

doubt the wiring system in 1965 was designed to carry the

Reply to
Elvin Rambaran

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.