145 alternator upgrade?

Greetings;

I have my '72 145 back from the shop; the head transplant was a success, and now I'm looking into other things.

My car came without A/C, and therefore has a 35A alternator. The cars that had A/C installed at the factory were fitted with a 55A alternator, and I'm contemplating upgrading my car to one of those. Does anyone happen to know if there were any issues with doing that? I know the voltage regulators may be different, but replacements are available that handle both the 35A and 55A alternators. Do I need to worry about upgrading the wiring? New fuses?

The existing alternator has a bad bearing and and seems to be a bit weak (upon starting the car, the alternator light stays on until I rev the engine, and doesn't seem to be charging at idle); as long as I have to do a remove/reinstall, I might as well improve things a bit. I'll have the bearings in the 35A replaced and keep it as a spare.

Thanks,

Gary

Reply to
Gary Heston
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When I had a 145 the alternator gave up the ghost entirely and I decided to replace it with a Ford alternator. It worked... kinda. The biggest problem I had (after dealing with the different size hole for the pivot bolt) was the diameter of the alternator itself. The Ford unit was larger and had to be completely unmounted to get the belt on. I tried a larger belt but then the alternator couldn't be adjusted far enough out to tension the belt - there isn't a lot of swing available. Other than those mechanical problems it was a success.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

When I had a '73 142, the sorry alternator (French crap) just wouldn't put out enough to handle the load. I got a Bosch 55A alternator and regulator. As I recall, it was quite straightforward to replace the parts. The wiring worked fine and the car ran like a champ. I also replaced the electronic FI with a carburetter and that made a great improvement. While not exactly straightforward, it wasn't all that hard to do.

Good luck.

Chuck Fiedler Nothing but Volvo since 1974

Reply to
Chuck Fiedler

I am not really familar with what model number of engine that you have, but not far from here their is a volvo repair shop that on their web site sells a alternator upgrade kit for the B-18&B-20 engines to up grade to a 63 amp delco alternator, comes with a bracket to mount it.The web site is Rainbowautosevice.com. look under parts.

Kasoma Duplantis

Reply to
snpboy

My car has a B20F (D-Jet injection) engine.

Nice concept, but $129 for a bracket, bolts, and easy instructions is a bit steep--I can get two 55A aftermarket alternators for less than that, and they will bolt right in.

At that price, something like an upgraded voltage regulator or a new cable harness should be included.

Thanks for the link, though.

Gary

Reply to
Gary Heston

I think the existing alternator is a Bosch. I'll have to check the regulator in there (it's been replaced) to see if it's already a 55A capable version. Looks like it'll go smoothly.

If the pressure sensor in mine dies (again), a carb conversion will be required--Bosch quit making them, and there aren't any new ones left anywhere. Where did you come up with a manifold, and what carb did you use? I may as well start putting the parts together...

Thanks,

Gary

Reply to
Gary Heston

If you already have FI, why not keep it? Use Megasquirt, SDS or maybe another aftermarket ECU.

Good luck with the Alternator.

-K

Reply to
Kelsey Cummings

Reply to
Mike F

No problem--my lower bolt is a replacement already. The original one broke off. Getting the tip out of the hole was a _real_ pain; had to pull the radiator, drill a hole into the tip, drive an old screwdriver ground to a square point into it to finally crack it loose with Vise-Grips on the screwdriver shaft.

Really annoying... At least I have plenty of bolts around.

Gary

Reply to
Gary Heston

Reply to
Bill Chaplin

Bosch makes a 55A upgrade that will fit right in to any B18 or B20. Part # is AL77X at KORE-TEK phone # is 508.995.3755. I have no affiliation - there are other suppliers probably. I used this re-manufactured unit on my '70

1800E which is same as your 145 except that you have B20F. Increased amps make lights brighter, able to drive more appliances such as A/C, modern radio and multiple speakers.

I have a used amm (air mass meter, air pressure meter, whatever) that may fit your B20F that I pulled from a 140. It worked on my B20E, but I replaced with the correct part # so I have this extra. I believe there are a couple of specialty shops that claim they can rebuild this amm. The ECU almost never fails unless you bake it in a paint shop oven. After that, keeping your injector seals, fuel hoses, fuel filter and fuel pump in good condition are the main things to keep D-Jet working reliably. With FI or carb, consider converting from mechanical points to electronic ignition for improved timing and horsepower.

Pat Q '70 1800E '96 850

Reply to
Pat Quadlander

That's just an alternator, correct? I found a site listing it as for the '75 240 series. They

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also listed an external regulator for that year, which would be consistent with the 145.

I think your 1800E is a lot more fun to drive than my 145. :-)

Have you looked into the supercharger kit at

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for your 1800E? The protype knocked six seconds off the 0-60 time for aP1800 / B18 car.

I'll start with something that will charge at idle and go from there.

Manifold Pressure Control Sensor, MPC for short. I'd be interested in it; the one I have isn't perfect. Price?

Fuel Injection Corporation looks to be one; I'll se if they want to rebuild my collection (4 or 5) of the things.

IPD has a unit by Perlux that looks easy to install; heard anything about it?

Gary

Reply to
Gary Heston

Gary,

I don't know if all '75 240s were configured this way, but I saw a '75 245 wagon with a B20. This was the 1st year of 240-era, so I guess this was a transition year before going to the B230 engine. Because it was a B20 with F injection, it should be able to use the same alternator as B20s on older

120s, 140s, and 1800's. I did not have to change any wiring from the earlier 35A alternator. It was 3 yrs ago that I upgraded to the 55A, so I don't remember if the regulator was integrated or not. In any event, it was plug-and-play.

Group, did all '75 240s come with B20, or just some?

On the breakerless ignition, I selected the Crane product from IPD. At the time, I read a review that the Perlux product was not as easy to install with "plug-n-play" convenience, so I elected to select the more expensive Crane product. This was on my son's '66 120s. I was happily satisfied, and did not second-guess my selection when it came time to upgrade the 1800E. I'm sure there are plenty of customers who are very satisfied with the less-expensive Perlux product. Bottom line is the same: no more finicky ignition points.

On the correctly named Manifold Pressure Control, I'll check the part number on my extra part, and post it to let you verify it is the same part number. Price is $40 plus shipping. That's less than I paid, but I don't think I'll need it in the future since I replaced with correct part # for my 1800E.

Reply to
Pat Quadlander

As I understand it, the B21 (overhead cam) was introduced on the 1975 models in some countries, but there were only B20s in North America in

1975.
Reply to
Mike F

That's my understanding as well...but...

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6) 1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk) 1994 Volvo 850 (Tilley) 1973 Volvo 1800 ES (Hyacinth Bucket)
Reply to
Ron

I have 2 Manifold Pressure Controls for sale, $40 each plus shipping. Here are part numbers:

0 280 100 015 0 280 100 053

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> for your 1800E? The protype knocked six seconds off the 0-60 time for a> > P1800 / B18 car.> >> > > Increased > amps> > >make lights brighter, able to drive more appliances such as A/C, modern> > >radio and multiple speakers.> >

Reply to
Pat Quadlander

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