2 Questions: Tie Rod and Engine Flush

Can't help you with #1, but regarding #2, remove your dino oil and use Mobil 1 synthetic. That will remove all the sludge. If you do, you should change the oil after ~ 1,000 miles, then after ~ 2,500 miles and then on your third oil change, everything should be back to normal. I change my oil twice a year. 5W30 in autumn/winter and

10W30 in spring/summer. If your seals are pretty much finished, they may leak. Mines didn't, except the oil cap needed a new seal ($2).

I'm not so sure; this is a 21-year-old-car we're talking about--even if it is a Volvo.

More likely than your 'everything should be back to normal' I think would be 'get ready to put in a new set of rings'.

cheers,

Henry

The tie rod is a straight foward job. It unscrews from the rack. If the outer rod is good, loosen the nut and unscrew the rod from it. Install the new one, don't forget the lock ring and bend the tabs over, get an alignment and Happy Motoring. Stay away from synthetics. Run Castrol 20w-50 for moderate climates or go to 20w-30 for severe weather.

What is the reason for staying away from synthetic? Is it because his seals may/will leak?

After using dino for 11 years in my 240, I switched to synthetic and everything is fine. Easier on the engine after a cold night and oil change only needed twice a year instead of four times a year.

Thanks for the advice. I pulled the tie-rod replacement procedure out of Haynes and it's largely as you described with a few additional details like the correct torqu for the bolts upon completion etc.. I hope they're not offended if I bring them the Haynes to help them along. I believe it's not too hard but they're not exactly coming off a run of 20 tie-rod replacements!

Thanks again, blurp

On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 19:10:30 -0500, the illustrious "Rod Gray" favored us with the following prose:

Is 20w50/20w30 correct? I thought 240 needs much thinner oil.

They're not really picky about the viscosity, IIRC the manual specifies

10w30 for a mild climate, 20w50 should work fine.

"Do not use oils with other viscosity ratings. The use of incorrect viscosity oil can shorten engine life.

For winter, SAE 5W/30 for temp below -22F(-30C) and up to 68F(20C) and SAE 10W/30 for temp between -4F(-20C) and up to 104F(40C).

"SAE15W/40 is recommended for use in driving conditions that raise oil temperature and increase oil consumption (i.e. mountain driving, trailer towing).

"SAE15W40 must not be used at low ambient temperature; see viscosity chart

SAE15W/40 for temp from 0F(-15C) up to greater tan 104F(40C)

Thanks very much, that really is terrific information. I appreciate all the responses and, as always, trust what I read here more than what I hear in a garage. Rod, thanks esp. for the detail and the heads up about cleaning under the valve cover...my gasket is leaking there and it's due to come off anyway so I'll clean what I find under it! I am only filling with the top octane gas I can find but that's usually 92 (occasionally 94 at Sunoco). I will ask the fellows to check the mixture on friday when the tie-rod gets replaced.

Thanks again for your opinions! blurp

Well, I see I've been using the right oil all along. Still, the car is old and the engine sludge is undoubtedly present. To revisit my original post, has anyone got experience with engine treatments administered by a mechanic/service shop? I know one shop I used to go to (South Scarborough Auto) offered some kind of "De-Carbonizer" treatment and I saw the Engine Renew at Costco. A Google search for "engine renew" turned up NO INFORMATION on the product/service which is a big red flag. I don't know the proper name of the other treatment so I can't do any other research on it.

I just know that my oil goes black right after an oil change and it seems likely that my engine is full of crud. My conclusion is that it would benefit from the removal of said crud (I might be wrong?). Is there more that I can do than a straight oil-based engine flush? I am highly skeptical about the effectiveness of gas-tank additives.

I wonder if that will solve the interminable DETONATING that comes whenever the Turbo boosts into the yellow.

I also hope an engine swap isn't the only solution.

Thanks again, blurp

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 02:54:37 GMT, the illustrious Sammy favored us with the following prose:

About the Costco "treatment", I know it is not needed. When I switched my 93 240 from dino to synthetic, after using dino for 11 years, the first oil was black (the one removed after the initial

1,000miles. Even the second oil, after 2,500 miles, was still kind of dark. Only the next oil change (it happened after 3,000 miles in my case but you can easily go up to 5,000++ miles) was the oil kind of normal color. All the oil changes following that were normal.

Since synthetic is strong in detergent, I know it should remove all your sludge. The problem is that the same sludge might be the only thing preventing you from having leaking seals. If it is removed, be it by Costco or by synthetic oil, you could end up with an expensive maintenance bill. And there won't be any going back possible.

The choice is yours. IMO, Costco treatment isn't necessary, synthetic oil will do the job. But you might regret it deeply if a major seal ends up leaking.

I was hesitating before switching, but because synthetic is more fluid than dino in low temp (easier on the engine in cold start), and because I would need only two oil changes a year instead of four, I decided to take my chance. No regret.

Your mileage may vary.

If yours is detonating something is very wrong, you are running at least mid grade fuel I presume? Cheap stuff will ping, also the mixture could be off or there may be a ton of carbon buildup on the pistons and head, detonation will destroy the engine quickly.

Ok guys. Here's the real skinny. In the 80's there was a court case against Castrol because their synthetic turned to crap in a Corvette and caused the engine to seize up.Synthetic is not compatible with regular oil. Sammy is correct in saying that it can be done, but dont't go to your're typical $19.95 oil change place where the guy looks like he just stepped out of the Deliverance movie {Burt Reynolds for you younger fellows) and expect him to do it correctly. The engine MUST be at operating temp (did they let it set there for 2 hours befofe they did it). Then let it drain for

30 minutes before capping the drain plug (use a new brass washer, not plastic), and espically if you have a turbo, pull the coil wire and crank the engine over until you have good oil pressure. Fill the filter before installing it, make sure the O-ring from the old filter doesn't stick to the filter houing which will surely cause a leak, oil the O-ring on the new filter, and only tighten it hand tight. DO NOT use a filter wrench on it. On the viscosity issue, at the dealership in Florida where I worked, we used 20/w50 year round. I used the same in Atlanta where it would be 0 to 10 above for days at a time. In New Hampshire I still ran the same, but used a dip stick heater so the engine would start. Once the engine is running, it will sitll reach the same operating temp and if you have a thinner oil just so it will start, it is to thin. On the turbo detination problem, the turbos have a lower compression ratio than the normally aspirated engines. Carbon build up will cause detionation. Exxon gas has Tychron in it, which will help clean the corbon build up on the cylinder heads. Fill the tank with 93 octane Exxon, add a can of Tychron and see if the problem doesn't go away. Then every forth or fitih tank, do the 93 octain again. About the oil getting dirty quickly, cheap oil hardens on the head. It will cause a build up that you can chip away. That,s why the oil gets dirty right after you change it. Remove the valve cover which is an easy job on a B21, B23,B230, or a B230F. Just clean all the junk out that has accumlatted.Run the car a thousand miles then change the oil again. Some of that build up will go down the oil passages and contaminate the oil again. BTW, I noticed that my e-mail address was incorrect. If anyone tried to reach me and I didn't reply, my apoligies. I have changed it.

Try using decent fuel shell optimax bp ultimate or mobil 8000 and see if its better .If you have turned up the turbo if may detonate as well a visit to a decent Volvo guy might help and save your engine .

Thanks for the detonation advice. I think the whole thing traces back to a slight error in the timing when the new timing belt was installed. It was detonating right after that and I had someone else look at it and make a timing adjustment a couple of months later (once it was determined that it was detonating) that solved the problem for about 3 weeks then the detonating came back.

I have only ever run the car with Shell Optimax (or better) and have found that fresh oil + 0.5L of Lucas oil stabilizer almost completely eliminates the detonating. I figure the engine is now toast (or at least the rings are shot).

Any other suggestions of what I might look at?

Thanks, blurp ps. the tie-rod job was smooth and trouble-free once they got the part. I have to say, a garage that's open on Saturdays (as Pipes is) is a godsend for working folks! They're thinking of opening on Sundays too!

On Sat, 3 Apr 2004 21:52:39 +1000, the illustrious "John Robertson" favored us with the following prose: