240 blower motor

Same as any 240, it's a big job any way you look at it. Pull the center console, pull the glovebox, remove the instrument cluster, disconnect the vents, remove the dash, remove the framing pieces from the center console, disconnect the ducting, pop off the clips, remove the side panels from the blower box, remove the nuts and pull off the blower wheels, remove the shroud around the motor, take out the bolts, disconnect the wiring harness and feed it through, remove the motor. Reinstall everything in reverse order. Took me about 4 hours on the only one I've done, wasn't fun in the least but it went fairly smoothly. As far as hints, keep track of all the fasteners in ziplock bags and don't do it when you're tired/frustrated/have to use the car later that day.

Figure about 10 Hours if you have never tinkered with this before it is not a easy job for the do it yourself person to perform. In my tenure with Volvo cars this always a job which i dislike performing due the fact that you are hanging on the edge of the car for most of the time required to perform this repair Glenn Volvo Technician

I don't see how it would take 10 hours unless you get stuck or take a lot of breaks, it is one of the most difficult repairs on the whole car though.

I would say 10 hours is a good estimate for an inexperienced person with limited tools who's never done this before.

Also one other tip - there's lots of ground wire terminals that live under various screws that will need to be removed. I write the number of terminals under each screw on a piece of masking tape and stick it beside the hole. That way you can be sure of getting all the grounds grounded again.

There may be two alternatives: 1) lubricate; 2) cut large access hole. Instructions for both approaches should be available in archives of this NG.

R> any helpful hints on changing blower motor on 86 240 w-air would be > most appreciated.

I've heard of those and considered trying them, but once I got in there it appeared it would be easier to just do it by the book. Lubrication is an option but likely won't help for long. Could buy you some time until the weather warms up though.

My 'lube job' has lasted about 5 years, althouth the motor is noisy and I go easy on it, often 'parking' the switch to shut the fan off completely. I've attached the info for the 'Drill 'N 'Squirt' procedure, which takes a newby maybe 2 hours, tops.

Oops, wrong file. I'll try again:

For DIY virgin, plan more than 10 hours.

A. Alternative method for shorter job:

1. insert dynamite stick
2. ignite
3. buy later model 240 with less miles

B. But, seriously, an aging 240 blower motor begins failing erratically, usually when temperature dips below 30 F. If you can wait a few more minutes until the car engine is good and warm before you turn the fan on, and your A/C temp control is turned all the way to red (hottest), and you jerk the fan on/off, on/off, on/off several times, then you will jerk the fan axle bushing to spin free (listen for symptomatic: quiet = good; whining/screeching pitch = bad). The totally warm engine, transferred into the the radiator coolant and on to the heater element, will minimize the seizing behavior on the aging fan motor bushings. This method may buy you

C. Another method is the frequently documented method of only halfway blowing up your car, by dismantling the center console until you reach the tightly constructed fan shroud. Instead of dismantling further, cut some small holes in the shroud/enclosure (or one much larger holer), and squirt some good, long-lasting lubricant on the fan axle bushings and run the fan to make sure that the lubricant has solved the fan seizing and screeching problem. Then, cover the holes with your favorite duct tape, and put the center console all back together. Do this routine at the beginning of each winter to buy about 3 more years (maybe more?).

D. The last resort is the actual complete job: replace the damn motor. Though seldom needed, it's probably easier to replace the 240 engine (that B230F thing). I wish the A/C heater blower motor was as durable as the B230F thing. Usually, it's kind of cool to discover the simple economy inherent in older Volvo engineering and design and ease of maintenance. However, this blower motor thing, it defies understanding, unless it's Italian (just jerking with you).

I hope either B., or C. will work for you.

A., and D. > >

With my 240s, I did a combo of C and D. Dismantle and remove and put one drop of oil on each shaft - I used rear axle oil as I thought that was the most durable oil there was. (Note: that heater motor is still working quietly more than 10 years later.) I counselled someone here to use the same oil, using method C alone - not good, using the buckshot method, gear oil is much too stinky!

Just in case someone misses the other message I just posted, the above oil is too stinky for the drill and squirt method!

I have breezed through all posts (replies) here, and 10 seems a tad bit high, but if you are a little non-confident in your abilities and didn't remove at least one front seat and the steering wheel before starting, your back will likely give you a few reasons to take lots-o-breaks and may take you even longer than 10 hours. I have replaced blower in both my 240's one had A/C one didn't and that made no difference to me at all. I did myself the favour and removed both front seats in each case though. I believe there are explicit directions posted in brickboard website on how to do it. Well I tackled this job here in Mississauga Ontario Canada October 2003 not too hot and not too cold, actually just right. You wanna be doing this task now in heated garage (well lit)If you live in upper states for sure.

Dan

Or just replace the damn motor and be done with it for another 15 years, it's not THAT hard, and you'll learn something in the process. It's nice to not have to worry if you'll be able to defrost your windshield on a cold morning rather than try to take a shortcut to save some time.

Yeah, in subsequent posts I noted that distinctive sulphur smell; I had thought that using synthetic gear oil would be safe, but it stank for a couple of months. Durable, but smelly. I'd suggest using 5W-30 synthetic

Oh, that was you, was it? :(

Yes, but I hold no grudges. At least it worked! I keep meaning to edit that archived post to add the motor oil suggestion, but I keep forgetting. It would also be nice to know how well it works, first...

...

Can I suggest removing the seats first? Only a few bolts each and it gives heaps of room to move without performing acrobatics.

Paul