'83 240 ... fuel problem?

a friend just told me about his 240 having what sounds like a fuel delivery problem.... it starts ok, runs for a few blocks or even a few miles, then dies. He pulls over, shuts it down, then restarts it without any problem, only to have it happen again a few blocks later. I suggested he check the fuel pump relay and even the pump(s). Could also be a plugged fuel filter, I suppose.

The odd thing is that this has happened in the past, generally after having the plugs and plug wires replaced. Makes me think that a vacuum line might be involved, getting dislodged during the plug wire replacement, although you'd think the shop would catch that when he told them of the problem.....

Any other suggestions I can pass on to him?

m9876c at yahoo dot com

Reply to
Perry Noid
Loading thread data ...

FWIW, I've had these symptoms in a couple of cars with plugged fuel filters. I assume the debris blocked the filter, then fell away when the engine sat for a while.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

yes, I had much the same thing happen to a Buick back in the mid-70's.... would drive fine for 20 minutes or so, then gradually begin slowing down until it finally died and I had to pull over to side of road. Wait 10 minutes, then would restart and drive fine for a while. Turned out to be debris in the gas tank! It would collect on the strainer, slowly shutting off the fuel until the car died. Sitting let the stuff float away and the car would run again. The dealer said it was some sort of liner they were using in the tank, not junk pumped in with the gas.... Once they cleaned it all out, the problem never re-occured.... I'll mention that to the friend with the '83 volvo 240, although the interval seems too short for it to be the strainer, more likely the in-line filter. No idea if he's ever had that changed or not!...

Reply to
Perry Noid

problem.....

If you want to check if it's the fuel pump relay you can take the cover off and leave it hanging under the dash so you can see if the contacts are opening when they shouldn't... at least that's what I did. Not while you are driving.

Reply to
jg

Usually the contacts close fine, but the solder cracks on the circuit board from thermal stress, easy to see with the cover off.

Reply to
James Sweet

This has happened to me and a great source of thought and fret. I've read about it before in this forum, trying to figure this out. My brother in law, a font of information, all of it good and well thought out, thought maybe water in the gas, solution: pour pure alcohol in the take, 1 pint. The car ran ok but it wasn't for my 'problem'. I replaced the dead 'in tank' pump. Not a bad job to do. The tank was clean and a new pump was satisfying to have. But that wasn't the problem either. Replaced the under the car pump, may as well. It wasn't the problem. My mechanic (volvo only) feels it the cold start box...the problem is that the wiring needs to be switched over and the new box...ie $1000. Without changing it, he adhered the connector as best he could and I've keeped the car at least

1/2 full at all times. Its been ok for about 3 mos. Fingers crossed. He is positive that a new box is needed and my problem. Oh, I drive an 83' GL Good luck to us both, Rojo
Reply to
Rojo2G

I have an 82 with LH FI with a similar problem. Looses power occasionally and stalls. Immediately restarts and runs for a while.

One other thing could be any failure on the ignition side will turn off fuel pumps via relays. Safety feature I think.

I intend to check all the fuel electrical/flow stuff first, including amperages consumed by the pumps. I will reply if successfull.

Hope it helps.

Reply to
dave

I have an 82 with LH FI with a similar problem. Looses power occasionally and stalls. Immediately restarts and runs for a while.

One other thing could be any failure on the ignition side will turn off fuel pumps via relays. Safety feature I think.

I intend to check all the fuel electrical/flow stuff first, including amperages consumed by the pumps. I will reply if successfull.

Hope it helps.

Reply to
dave

In case it ever helps in the future, my car gave out totally.

Pump was on, but a bit noisey. It drew 4.3 amps so I thought it was fine.

In tank pump was present and drawing 1 amp, working fine.

Fuel pressure regulator was fine [at least no fuel out vacuum line]

Fuel pump relays and fuses were fine..

Disconnected fuel line after FPR and got no fuel when fuel relay removed and jumpered on.

Decided fuel filter was clogged, removed and air pressure went right through it.. not likely clogged.

Got a new bosch fuel pump and ran both via battery for a few seconds. New one sounded much stronger than the old..

Replaced the fuel pump, started right up. Hope this helps someone, sometime.

Reply to
dave

When my pump failed it still ran, I took it apart and the impeller had sheared off the little nubs on the motor shaft that drive it. A good pump should draw about 10A, yours likely had the same problem, motor was just freewheeling.

Reply to
James Sweet

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.