'85 245 Air Conditioning -HELP!

The compressor is seized. What happens is the clutch fails and starts spinning the compressor, which must have leaked its charge and hence has no oil in it, then that seizes and throws the belt. The car can still be driven like that, my mom drove her '86 for a few weeks after that exact thing happened, the steering is really only difficult in parking lots.

You'll want a whole compressor from a junkyard. The R12 and R134 compressors are the same, and most Volvos with a suitable compressor will be R12. All '85+ 200, 700, and 900 models will have what you need. While the system is apart, I would advise retrofitting it to much cheaper and readily available R134. It's a perfect time to do so since it's easy to flush all the old oil out of the compressor while you have it out, then change all the O-rings in the fittings, inspect the rubber hoses and replace if necessary, flush out the evaporator and condenser with solvent and then replace the expansion valve and filter/dryer. Do the latter part just before having it pumped down and charged because otherwise the dryer will get contaminated with moisture. Ideally the whole job should be done in one go to minimize contamination of the system.

Once again, thank you, James, for taking the time to reply, and in such a timely manner.

The car is already retrofitted for R134, and the system was working fine and keeping the interior cool before the failure.

I have been researching since posting and awaiting a reply here, and from what I can see, if I find a suitable compressor, the worst case is to just put fresh ester oil in it IF it comes from a car that is still R12. Otherwise, if I find a R134 car, it should be a relatively easy swap. And then right over to a shop for evacuation and recharging. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Yep, flush the oil out of the compressor, it can't hurt even if it was

134, but most are R12. You'll still want to replace the filter/dryer, you do that any time the system is opened, it contaminates rapidly with moisture and if you don't change it, the desiccant pouch can burst and then you have a real mess.

I got the oil, but where does it go? There were what appeared as drain plugs on both compressors, but there was no oil in them as one who has no experience in A/C work would assume. is it just a system oil that goes into the inlet port on the compressor?

In an case, I found an excellent compressor at the Pick 'n Pull on a

240 that was still R112, but was in excellent condition- looked like someone had recently replaced it (spliced wires, but little to no dirt on it and no rust on the clutch surfaces). Spins freely and easily. The old one was so seized that neither the clutch nor the compressor could be turned by hand.

Since my '90 needs to be updated to R134a, I am thinking about doing the conversion on it, then renting the vac pump, manifold, and leak tester and giving it a shot myself, and doing both evacs and recharges at the same time.

What solvent is best to flush the system? Should it be run through the compressor (not while under power) and blown out of that as well? I assume that the filter/dryer and orifice is removed, then the hoses, evaporator, and condenser are all flushed out? Are there O rings on the evaporator (in the car, under the dash) that need to be replaced?

If anyone has links to instructions it would be appreciated. Most of what I find is fairly generic or lacking in details.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Go to an autoparts store and look for refrigeration solvent, it's made specifically for flushing AC systems. What I do is attach a hose to a funnel and then stick that into the pipe going to the evaporator after removing the expansion valve and pour in about a cup, then blow it out well with compressed air. Do the same with the condenser and any hoses, then reassemble with new O-rings lubed with a bit of ester oil. Pour the oil into a new filter/dryer and install that. You can pour the oil in just about anywhere really but you generally want to avoid making the compressor slug a bunch of liquid, it doesn't compress. Once you remove the protective caps from the filter/dryer you will want to pump the thing down within a few hours in order to get as little moisture and other contamination as possible. I use a window A/C compressor I bought surplus for 5 bucks as a vacuum pump. It doesn't have to be a super deep vacuum, but you want it as low as possible before charging. You might just buy a manifold, I've seen them on sale at Harbor Freight for 30 bucks. A lot of stuff they have is crap, but the AC manifold my friend bought there is actually quite good.

I paid $300.00 AU for a s\h compressor and gas up and its still running well about to get another gas up .Every 3-4 years regassing is needed .I now have

134a after r12 and besides new proper oil for the compressor when installed its fine .As well when refilling the correct oil put in via the filling tube will make sure all is well .I use Norm's Auto Air in Ringwood and have done for years with all our cars as hes an honest man which is rare .Bad luck for you if your in The USA ... Norm's Auto Air 5/401 Maroondah Hwy, Ringwood VIC 3134 (03) 9876 8611? Australia