86 volvo 240 GL series

Hello, I'm Nunu my problem started with my volvo when ever I go places and Park when I return to my car turn the ignition its dead. Someone will give me a boost my car will start instantly. This went on for weeks. One day i was driving made a right turn the car just died. I had my car towed to the car repair shop. They Diagnosed the problem as the timing belt/timing belt tensioner/timing cover/intermediate shaft se/plus labor which was a total cost of 698.38 after those repairs. I had additional services done which consist of alternator belt/A/C belt/power steering belt/washer motor installed which came to 300.00.I recieved my car back on 04/04/05 today's date is 04/30/05. I went to the store came out less than five minutes my car was dead. Someone gave me a boost it started right up as i was driving I could see the power draining as i was driving/meaning lights going dim.I got home and turned the car off tried to turn it back on it wouldn't start all power was gone can anyone come up with a solution Thank,You Nunu

Reply to
nunu
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How many miles on the car Nunu? Did they check the alternator and is the battery good?

Reply to
volvo_driver via CarKB.com

"nunu" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Basics,

1) a charging system that is not charging, 2) you could have a bettery that will not hold a charge, 3) an electrical drain that discharges the battery over time, 4) some of the above.

More detailed, A quick check of the charging system, check the voltage with the car running ( in your case after you have gone on a 30 minute continous loop that ends at home to get the battery charged up) expect to see a voltage of

13.7 to 13.9vdc at the battery. If your voltage is a volt or a volt and a half less or even less, I would wonder about the charging system or the battery itself. If your charging voltage is around 13.8 that tells me the the charging system is likely working.

If the charging system is working, then a quick check of the battery is next. Turn the engine off and again at the battery, check the voltage. If your battery was in good shape after being charged by your alternator I would expect a voltage of 12.2 to 12.5vdc. If it is below 12vdc I suspect the battery that will not hold a charge or an electrical drain that pulls the battery voltage down.

Engine still off, with an amperage meter you can pull the plus cable from the battery put the ammeter in line and see if there is any current flowing. Does your car have a clock? Clocks do draw a very small current I am guessing around 0.02 amps. If you get a draw that small, you can remove the fuse for the clock circut and see if it goes away. Remove the fuse for the clock circut and continue below.(keep in mind that clocks often share the circut with other things at draw much more than the clock) Now if you get a draw, you know something is draining the battery. This must be located and addressed or it will keep draining the battery and ultimatly your battery will fail from being run down to zip so often and any future battery you purchase will have the same fate. To narrow down the drain you can remove one fuse at the fuse box and look for a change in the current draw. Go through all the fuses one at a time. If the current is reduced but not zero, note that circut as you could have more than one circut that is a problem.

Let us know what you find at this point.

Reply to
newtovolvo

Right, and the timing belt problem you had near the start of April will have nothing to do with this problem. And if there is something that is draining the battery, the battery may be damaged, so just fixing/replacing the component causing the problem may not be the whole solution.

Reply to
Mike F

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