98' S70 Noise during low speed turns

I have been noticing a griding/clicking noise in the front right of the car when I do low speed turns (parking lots, stop signs etc). It only happens at low speeds (I put it in neutral going 35 and I could not hear anything). It only happens when turning so I am guessing its something with the steering. My dad came down a month ago and he took it in because he heard a similar noise (I usually have the radio on so thats probably why I haven't heard it as much). I guess they lubricated something with the steering the front but I can't remember exactly what. I have to take it in for an oil change soon anyway so I will probably get this checked up too. Any ideas as to the cause?

Reply to
Chris Cassidy
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I would suspect the right side CV joint.

Chuck Fiedler Nothing but Volvo for over 30 years

Reply to
c.fiedler

Ok thanks for the info, I will definitely bring it into the shop this week since it seems to be getting more constant recently compared to when it went in a month ago. What is the usual cost for this to be replaced?

Reply to
Chris Cassidy

That is what it sounds like to me, too. It is easy to check for yourself, Chris. If you look under the car at the inside of the right front wheel, you will see a black rubber bellows about half a foot in diameter and a foot long on the axle right near the wheel. If the bellows is torn - they typically split about half-way around at first and progress to splitting in two in a few months - and a lot of black grease is flung on everything around, you've found the problem. For a '98, the vehicle age is also right for the CV joint boots to fail.

All front-wheel drive and AWD cars have those CV joints. CV joints rarely fail as long as the boot (bellows) is intact and always fail once it has been torn a few weeks or so. Most people find out about the problem when they hear the noise you describe when making sharp turns.

Repair is usually done by replacing the entire drive axle on that side. By the time the CV joint is making noise that is really the only choice. That is the most economical approach in any case, as the axle has to be removed entirely for any proper repair and the old axle is usually returned for rebuild. Prices vary widely, by shop and by vehicle. $200 US parts and labor is about the low limit while $700 is roughly the high side. The job is straightforward and any reputable shop can do it for a price they can quote firmly, so shopping around is worthwhile. Some shops will try to sell you

4-wheel (thrust) alignment with the repair, but the replacement does not affect alignment. Alignment isn't bad but isn't necessary because the drive axle is splined in the inner CV joint to adjust its length to the alignment.

Once one side goes the other is soon to follow. It is rarely mechanical damage that tears the boot; the rubber just ages and becomes brittle. Heat radiated from the exhaust system is also a big factor. You may elect to have both sides done now or wait until the other side needs it. You can drive a couple of months with the CV joint failing like this (the grease has gone and contaminants are attacking the CV joint), but don't let it go forever. Driving through deep water makes the need more urgent. Noise while driving straight is a bad sign. If it fails entirely - after half a year or so it is a real concern - your car will have to be towed. In addition, the broken end of the drive axle can do damage you'd really rather avoid.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

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