adding a tach tot eh 240.. Wiring? Clock?

I have received the large tachometer to replace the factory large clock on the 240 (and the small clock to go tot eh right of the cluster). Can someone help me with the wiring. The back of the tach has male spade connectors as shown here:

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Reply to
Randy G.
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There's a wire back there that plugs into the single spade, I think it is red & white. The small clock plugs into a connector on the back of the tach using that 3 wire cable.

Reply to
James Sweet

So the original cable that WAS connected to the original clock is no longer used? That explains EVERYTHING! Thank you!!!!!

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Reply to
Randy G.

Since I started this thread (with no little amount of frustration as seen in the mis-typed subject), and for the sake of the archives, I will end it with this:

When replacing the large clock with a tachometer (and possibly adding a small clock at the same time) the following should help you out:

1) Disconnect the battery.

2) Remove the instrument cluster. This will vary by year, from about '85 on you remove the headlight and instrument dimmer knobs (they pull off) and then carefully pry out the plastic bezel. Pop out the two blank instrument covers to the right of the cluster. You will see the

4 screws, two to each side. These are all that hold the cluster in place. make note of the position of the metal bracket on the left, and disconnect the wires for the rear fog lamp switch.

3) Pull the cluster forward and disconnect all the wires on the back. They only go back one way and generally in one place, so don't worry to much.

4) Disconnect speedometer cable. For cars without speedometer cables, take care when removing the electronic, 3-wire lead to the speedometer. It is held in place with a retainer clip (white plastic). Pull the clip backwards (if it is still in place) and then pull the connector off.

5) With the instrument assembly out of the dash, turn it over in your lap and remove the screws holding the clock in place and pull clock out. It is a tight fit so CAREFULLY prying with a small screwdriver and pressing the clock set button from the front may help. DO NOT DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD!

6) Put the clock-set plug in place. The small end (without the rubber washer) goes into the clear plastic face of the cluster from inside the cluster.

7) Insert the tach being sure that the set hole plug is in place and use the screws that held the original clock to hold the tach. DO NOT over-tighten.

8) If you also received a small clock, place the three rubber retainers into the slots in one of the two blank instrument openings to the right of the instrument cluster. The ratchety face points inwards, into the hole.

9) Thread the clock's cable into the chosen instrument hole, then insert the clock, engaging the tab at the bottom of the clock in the little slot in the dash.

10) Replace the instruments and reconnect them. In the cluster of wires that were connected to the instruments there is a white wire with red stripes. This connects to either of the two spade terminals on the bottom of the tach (marked "1" in the plastic on the back of the tach). The cable that came with your little clock connects to the three spade terminals on the back of the tachometer. The cable for the original clock is no longer used and can be tie wrapped under the dash, out of the way if you wish. replace all the other wires and connectors on the back of the cluster (note that the yellow and the yellow-white wires have different sized connectors and only go back from whence they came). Be sure to fully seat them, but do not force them! Use care when reconnecting the electronic speedometer wires and replace the retainer.

11) The rest of the assembly is in reverse order of removal.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Reply to
Randy G.

There's a cable attached to the original clock? On the cars I've dealt with the clock has been powered from the cluster circuit board.

Reply to
James Sweet

I have nothing to which to compare, but, the original clock had two intergral wires, a brown and a black, that jumpered from the clock to the clock (for lack of a better explanation). There was another connector- a 4 wire plastic with 4 female spade clips in it. It connected to the top area of the back of the clock as shown in the previous post of mine in this thread. FWIW- a 1990 245 DL.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Reply to
Randy G.

_____ Randy,

I confirm the installation details and the electrical connections:

1) The large tach is powered by the cluster circuit board, and the pins on the back of this instrument are fed through a circuit board inside it 2) The pins at the back of the tach are for additional instruments that can be mounted in the top of the dash to the right of the main cluster 3) Pin out of the plastic connector looking at the back of the tach is as follows (the markings on the back of the plug in my harness is not relevant and appears to be incorrect): +30 = 12 VDC, unswitched arriving from fuse #8 -31 = ground +58 = back light bulb supply from the dimmer rheostat 1 = red/white wire to coil also marked with the digit 1 (this wire is usually present in 240 series Volvos even if you did not have a tach installed)

My current 1981 240DL project wagon is wired exactly as above. The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual corresponds as well. In my 1989

240DL sedan, i added a small tach and later, a small voltage indicator. I had to tap into the green and black wires for the back lighting and ground. I obtained the sense voltage from the electrical connector on the left fender (by the headlight switch) via a small fuse and a new wire. The voltmeter draws about 25 mA of current and is always "ON". This is a better location for the voltage reading, not one of the fuses in the fuse block.

Regards / John

Reply to
jch

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