Best Oil For Emission Control

I reckon it'd run a suprisingly long time if you filled the sump with water :-)

The message from Duncan Wood contains these words:

Wasn't there a 2CV that did it with bananananas once?

Now now now, Huw, ease up on the ole girl! The D24T is a fairly good engine design but has some german arrogance in it... thr 160k mark is because of stuck rings, due to long oil change intervals. With good oil changed regularily, you can easily see 250-300k without problems and WITHOUT rebuild (a friend had his at 270k before some bad oil blew the rings). Soot in the oil is no worse than on most other older light-vehicle diesel engines. 7500 miles on DINO oil is NOT reccomended -- 3000 is the max with a preferable

1500-2000 on an older engine. With synthetics, then you can push to 7500 but get some oil analysises done on the way.

I've never heard of a broken camshaft myself... just plenty of broken timing belts. Gotta replace those FREQUENTLY! If the rings and timing belts are taken care of, and regular routine maintenance is performed RELIGIOUSLY, these things will go for a while unless they were not maintained. I have an

82 with 170k on the clock in my driveway that I have spent less than $100 on in the past year and it's running strong but smoky. Using good DELO oil, even at long change intervals (the car is a backup and life is swamped right now) the thing just won't die. The only major maintenance I've done on it in 8+ years of ownership has been a new starter.

Don't diss these engines too badly... the D24TIC (intercooled D24T from as early as the 740 series) was produced all the way up until June of this year, and the D30TIC is still being pushed out by VW/Audi. The baseline

1.6L 4-cyl diesel has evolved to the 1.9l TDI still being used in VW's today... when the base engine was designed in the 60's. That should show you how decent the design was.

-Mike

Wouldn't it be as important or more important to use a good diesel-rated oil (e.g. API CH-4 or CI-4) in order to handle the soot?

because of

changed

I have a friend who ran a fleet of LT's on country delivery routes who regularly had failures every 120000 maximum where his Transit direct injection engines went 250000 before attention. Admittedly these engines were worked much harder than the average owner driven car.

Soot in the

engines.

True

7500

preferable

Frankly whether an oil is synthetic or not is completely irrelevant at these change intervals which are governed by soot contamination and the oils ability to handle it. SHPD mineral oils have the ability to handle soot and other contaminants as efficiently as the best synthtics barring 60,000km oil and above rated to mb228.5 or better.

broken timing

RELIGIOUSLY,

swamped right

Delo 400 mineral oil is an API CH4 oil equivelent to a mb228.3 SHPD tier 1 oil, one step down from UHPD oils so can handle an amazing soot load while lubricating effectively and leaving no deposits.

baseline

Never renounced for longevity or refinement though.

Huw

Every VW LT Diesel I can remember having anything to do with has snapped at least one.

RELIGIOUSLY,

A surprisingly high proportion seem to fail within 100,000 mile intervals AFAICS. All in all this is not a reliable engine and never has been. The failings are very well known, certainly here in the UK.

Huw

I would have to agree with someone above who said about a diesel oil... My reasons in this are:

1) there is no true synthetic 10w-40 oil (castrol syntec, pennzoil, etc ARE NOT TRUE PAO or ester synthetics) that youll find over the counter. Mobil 1 doesnt make one, and Redline does, but good luck finding that for under $8/qt.

Your best bet is a diesel rated oil, either, in my order of choice:

Mobil Delvac 1300 super ($5.88/gal at walmart) Pennzoil Long life Chevron Delo 400 Shell Rotella T

These are designed to stand up to the issues in diesel engines. To my knowledge there are no 10w-40 oils out there that are rated even API CF, which is the Minimum you need to control soot. Soot is most liekly what has either caused stuff to stick in your engine, or has caused your engine to wear to the point that it just plain burns oil.

If youre set on a 10 wt oil, I would seriously consider using (I use it in my 83 MB 300D diesel with 210k trouble free miles):

1/2 Mobil Delvac 1300 super 1/2 Mobil delvac 1 (synthetic diesel rated oil)

Thsi will keep things super clean, the 1300 has a shot of moly for wear protection, and the delvac 1 has enhanced soot protection so soot loading beyond 2% isnt an issue.

Otherwise, I would have to suggest Mobil 1 15w-50 which is API CF (the correct minimum spec for your engine), so it can handle soot loads to 2%, will keep things clean, and, contrary to urban legends, will not cause your engien to leak, will clean it out a bit, and may actually swell oil pan seals

DOnt be worried about using synth in an older car. I was using straight Delvac 1 synthetic for a while around the 200k mark after only using dino for the first 200K, and ther ewas no leaks or issues at all...

Hope this helps,

JMH

snipped-for-privacy@worldnet.att.net (Ron Reaugh) wrote in :

At the risk of asking a silly question I must know if all this advice especially about diesel oil from walmart (Mobil Delvac) or pennzoil longlife will be beneficial in a 87 and 88 240 DL but is gasoline run engines. I do not have any real problems with burning oil just some leaking and the numbers on E-test in the past have been good, but the recent one for the

1988 was close to our limits for curb idling: HC ppm limit 200 reading 113ppm CO% ppm limit 1.00 reading taken 0.73 in the other cat. where engine is run at 1599 rpm HC ppm limit 71ppm - reading = 42ppm CO% limit 0.40ppm - reading = 0.25ppm NO ppm limit 805 reading = 182 note: test taken June 3rd 2003. Software version 3.16 Here's my concerns I change oil at regular intervals every 3 months or 5000klms which ever comes first (usually it's done because of time passed - not mileage) has had new plugs wires rotor and cap in the last 14 months and not done more than about 17,000klms of driving ago. The test with a brand new catylitic convertor (not OEM) on January 15th 2001 went like this (no curb idle taken at this time I think it may have not been required) also note there was no rpm figure given at this test (read valid only) HC ppm limit 80 reading 21 CO% ppm limit 0.45 reading 0.14 NO ppm limit 910 reading 41 with software version used 3.00 So what is happening here with the test showing alot more emissions escaping tailpipe? Should I be thinking twice about spending anymore money on her or think more about unloading her?

any and all advice most appreciated.

Just use normal 10W30 oil and a quality filter, it's not a turbo so there's no special requirements. If the emissions are getting worse try a tuneup, new plugs and wires, cap, rotor, clean the throttle body, replace the flame trap, run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it, all that stuff together should only cost you about $100 and no special tools or advanced knowledge is required. Also fix the leak, if the flametrap is clean there's only a few places where oil commonly leaks. These things should run pretty much forever as long as they aren't neglected.

Hi James thanks for the advice, I'll probably do the tune up thing and something else too. Another answer came directly to my inbox from (Tom Chudzinskion) possibly a regular contributor from our newsgroup that read: catyltic convertors begin aging instantly and collect sulfur deposits which will increase the e-test readings, and he also suggested that I consider the period in which to replace 02 sensor. here it is as received by me:

" It's not unusual at all to see the HC, CO, and NOx look excellent with a new catalytic converter but then see the readings rise as the catalytic converter ages. It's normal. If you live in an area where there is substantial amounts of sulfur in your gasoline, the sulfur will reduce its efficiency as it collects on the substrate."

"You didn't mention changing your O2 sensor. Bad or aging O2 sensors are the most common reason for emissions control failures and for high readings."

"I can't understand if you own a Volvo from your post or if you are referencing a different car with the readings you posted. In any event O2 sensors from the 1980's are 30,000 to 60,000 mile maintenance items and should be replaced at the interval recommended in your owners manual. Not replacing them will eventually prematurely burn out your catalytic converter(s) which are usually much more expensive."

Tom Chudzinski I am greatfull to all who have written me and the group as I am proud of this newsgroup and the people here are great.

Sincerely,

Dan Harrington Mississauga, Ontario Canada

88 245 DL 230,000klms 87 244DL 190,120klms hoping that rust doesn't eat away at the frame and underbody cause I think with some frequent TLC I could keep these two Bricks going, going, and going again!

Hi James thanks for the advice, I'll probably do the tune up thing and something else too. Another answer came directly to my inbox from (Tom Chudzinskion) possibly a regular contributor from our newsgroup that read: catyltic convertors begin aging instantly and collect sulfur deposits which will increase the e-test readings, and he also suggested that I consider the period in which to replace 02 sensor. here it is as received by me:

" It's not unusual at all to see the HC, CO, and NOx look excellent with a new catalytic converter but then see the readings rise as the catalytic converter ages. It's normal. If you live in an area where there is substantial amounts of sulfur in your gasoline, the sulfur will reduce its efficiency as it collects on the substrate."

"You didn't mention changing your O2 sensor. Bad or aging O2 sensors are the most common reason for emissions control failures and for high readings."

"I can't understand if you own a Volvo from your post or if you are referencing a different car with the readings you posted. In any event O2 sensors from the 1980's are 30,000 to 60,000 mile maintenance items and should be replaced at the interval recommended in your owners manual. Not replacing them will eventually prematurely burn out your catalytic converter(s) which are usually much more expensive."

Tom Chudzinski I am greatfull to all who have written me and the group as I am proud of this newsgroup and the people here are great.

Sincerely,

Dan Harrington Mississauga, Ontario Canada

88 245 DL 230,000klms 87 244DL 190,120klms hoping that rust doesn't eat away at the frame and underbody cause I think with some frequent TLC I could keep these two Bricks going, going, and going again!

Hi James thanks for the advice, I'll probably do the tune up thing and something else too. Another answer came directly to my inbox from (Tom Chudzinskion) possibly a regular contributor from our newsgroup that read: catyltic convertors begin aging instantly and collect sulfur deposits which will increase the e-test readings, and he also suggested that I consider the period in which to replace 02 sensor. here it is as received by me:

" It's not unusual at all to see the HC, CO, and NOx look excellent with a new catalytic converter but then see the readings rise as the catalytic converter ages. It's normal. If you live in an area where there is substantial amounts of sulfur in your gasoline, the sulfur will reduce its efficiency as it collects on the substrate."

"You didn't mention changing your O2 sensor. Bad or aging O2 sensors are the most common reason for emissions control failures and for high readings."

"I can't understand if you own a Volvo from your post or if you are referencing a different car with the readings you posted. In any event O2 sensors from the 1980's are 30,000 to 60,000 mile maintenance items and should be replaced at the interval recommended in your owners manual. Not replacing them will eventually prematurely burn out your catalytic converter(s) which are usually much more expensive."

Tom Chudzinski I am greatfull to all who have written me and the group as I am proud of this newsgroup and the people here are great.

Sincerely,

Dan Harrington Mississauga, Ontario Canada

88 245 DL 230,000klms 87 244DL 190,120klms hoping that rust doesn't eat away at the frame and underbody cause I think with some frequent TLC I could keep these two Bricks going, going, and going again!

Try the moly engine oil at

If not "worn out" it can reduce oil burning and perhaps allow passing of emissions test.

Old Geezer

'90 Beretta, 268 k miles, burns no oil and never a wrench on the engine. Used moly oil since new.

_______________________________________________________________________________ Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com - Accounts Starting At $6.95 -

The Worlds Uncensored News Source