DL240 1985 Volvo std trans. only 4th gear works??

My son was driving the Volvo and suddenly realized he only had fourth gear. It is a standard transmission, five speed. Sure enough, you can shift into each gear but only 4th gear works.

I pulled the transmission and removed the top off. The oil was bad, looked like water had been mixed in it or something else. So no lubrication was the cause of the problem.

Everything looks fine inside the case. Shift through all the gears, but still only have 4th gear when the first yoke is pushed forward. Does the shaft from the engine side go all the through the housing to the back. I can see where the back yoke wants to connect two gears but nothing happens when it does.

is there anything I can do to get it up and running again?

TIA Helaman

Reply to
Buckaroo
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4th gear runs straight through when engaged and does not take power off the layshaft. Does the layshaft turn when you rotate the input shaft? If the gearbox was run out of oil then it'll need a full rebuild to work properly again, it's pretty easy to find good used ones though, if you happen to be near Seattle there's an M47 missing the bell housing in my garage that you can have for free.
Reply to
James Sweet

Yes, the layshaft turns when the input shaft is rotated. also, like the next poster said the fluid inside, although a little over a quart, was chocolate looking stuff.

Bummer, not close to Seattle, but I am in Sacramento which actually puts us in the same time zone.

Reply to
Buckaroo

with a little more light on the subject I can see the first gear on the layshaft is stripped. I tried to move it with a screwdriver on the pieces of teeth still there, but at last no movement. I am assuming the matching gear must be stripped also.

Is it possible to order just the gears I need to replace from volvo or third party vendor. I guess also if I am capable of tearing the box down.

Also, found a M46 trans on ebay for $100.00. They claim it will work in a

1985 DL240. Will it really replace a M47 5 speed trans?? Haven't really found any good photos of either M46 or M47 transmissions on the net.

From the education I am getting on Volvo transmissions, LOL, it appears the M46 is a better tranny but I am assume it has a different shifter than mine since the M46 has a button for the overdrive? of course mine is just a straight piece of metal with knob on the top.

btw, thanks for you help

Reply to
Buckaroo

Sacramento has a pick and pull among other boneyards. Surely you could grab a M47 from them. Use it whole or just the guts.

Reply to
clay

Freight from Seattle ought to be less than 100.00

Reply to
clay

The M47 is a straight 5 speed, ie 5 gears. The M46 is the old M45(?)

4-speed with an electric overdrive added to the end of it. You could change over to the electric OD, but you'd have to put in all the electrics. That would be wiring if it isn't already there, and at least one relay.

To really understand them, check this out from the 700/900 FAQ:

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There are wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual for the 740 that are accurate. They don't tell you where things are in the 240, but it works the same. James might be able to confirm/deny that.

Also, swedishbricks is another valuable information source.

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Browse through that and see what you find.

The easiest route in my mind is to find a used M47 and swap it in.

Oh Yeah !!!!!!!! I believe you need to get the driveshaft or at least the front half of the driveshaft that came with the M46 if you do that. The tranny lengths are different.

good luck, /glenn

Try new oil and a prayer, maybe it sludged up and something is sticking from bad oil. OIl and water looks like choclate milk, running through any big puddles for fun? A Flood? Is there an oil pump and filter like an automatic?

Reply to
/g

I don't wanna try to pack it and certainly wouldn't pay $100 for an untested gearbox.

Reply to
James Sweet

Your car has an M46, it's a 4 speed with separate overdrive. The M47 is an integrated 5 speed, they're mostly interchangeable, front driveshaft section is different but most of the internal bits are the same too.

You don't even wanna know what new gears cost from Volvo, and if the gears were damaged from low fluid the bearings are shot too, you'll spend at least a couple thousand dollars on parts to completely rebuild it.

Call some junkyards, find a good used M46 and pop it in there, these are plentiful and rebuilding a transmission is spendy and a really big project.

Reply to
James Sweet

ok, so here is the end of the story.

Went down to Sacramento to a Volvo & Saab Auto Dismantlers, Inc.

3539 Recycle Road Rancho Cordova, CA 95742

They had a M47 transmission they had just pulled out of a 740. Paid $350 for it with 100 days warranty. Looks in nice shape. will mount it up over the weekend and be driving again.

BTW, He (counter man) said they are becoming rare birds. also, told me a friend of his has a 240 with over 750,000 miles and still going strong.

thanks for everyones help

Helaman

Reply to
Buckaroo

As I said earlier, if you put the M47 in, you will need to find the front section of driveshaft from a '87 or later manual 240, as well as the rubber mount that bolts to the crossmember at the back end, the gearbox is considerably shorter (and lighter) than the M46 that you have in your car. You'll probably also want the pattern cap for the shift knob, though the knob itself is the same. The M47 is a true 5 speed without the separate electrically activated overdrive unit on the back.

Many of the internal bits are the same, which is why I offered you the incomplete M47 I have, but you don't want to tear apart a transmission if you don't have to. The M47 will give you better fuel economy anyway, but put synthetic fluid in it, they are known for worn synchros.

Reply to
James Sweet

Reply to
Buckaroo

Here is someone elses fill plug nightmare:

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Several techniques I've heard of:

Use an arc welder. Ground to the tranny, then touch on the bolt, and let it get hot. Theory is that it burns out the corrosion (galvonic) crap in the threads.

In the above reference, just before the vise grips is the sears spiral bolt remover. I managed to strip the 10mm allen bolt holding a front caliper. I used the sears thing, and presto.

Tap on the head of the plug with a small (ball peen?) hammer while alternately trying to tighten and then loosen it with a box end wrench.

I've had a lot of success using a box end wrench, hold it in place, and then gently but repeatedly tap on it with a small hammer. Don't beat it, you're trying to act like an impact wrench.

Douche the hell out of the threads with PB blaster, or there's one other out there that is supposed to be better (don't know the name).

Using an impact wrench, or even battery power impact driver, put it on low, and alternately tighten and loosen it. As you go, adjust the wrench to go a bit harder/stronger, ie keep increasing the power, gently.

As someone mentioned, you have a bimetal situation. Aluminum and steel don't mix. You get galvonic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals. It's all the way thru the threads from inside to outside.

If you manage to force it and strip the threads, start looking for the rubber expandable emergency oil pan plug....8*)))

Good luck, /glenn

Reply to
/g

Please accept my apologies for top posting.

thanks, /glenn

Reply to
/g

That is very helpful and may help me yet but I can't help laughing... been there, done that

Reply to
Buckaroo

You know He talks about filling through the overdrive switch, I would think I could fill mine, eventually through the brake light switch,would be easier to get at than the OD switch....

Reply to
Buckaroo

If you have an M47 then there isn't an OD switch.

Reply to
James Sweet

I know, 8-)

Reply to
Buckaroo

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