fitting head gasket on redblock...

Hi, when I put the head gasket above the block, it is necessary, or useful, to spread a anti-seize compound (like a copper grease) on the surface of cylinder block and cylinder head? if yes, why? otherwise, is this an dry fitting? thanks from italy.

Reply to
Telespalla Bob
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NOTHING ON HEAD GASKET!!!!EVER!!!!

They are designed to crush to seal. That is why a specific bolt sequence and torque values are given. Anything extra between will probably get into some water or oil passage and cause other problems.

Clean and Dry, head and block and gasket.

Duane who is in the process of pulling a head to replace a blown head gasket.

Reply to
Duane

What he said.

Make certain the metal sealing surfaces are all clean, dry, and flat.

JRE

Reply to
JRE

ok, thanks to all. You think that the advice to spread a thin layer of copper grease has been given from a italian volvo workshop head... However which is the better solution to degrease the surfaces? Thanks.

Reply to
Telespalla Bob

Volvos, as I'm sure you understand, are not from Italy (grin).

Most modern head gaskets (from, say, 1970 forward) have any necessary sealants impregnated into their surfaces and really want to be installed on a clean, flat, dry surface to seal best. Adding anything to the mix will be contrary to the engineers' expectations. In general, very few good things have been reported about getting too far from the engineers' expectations, and this is no exception. Do what the service manual says to do and *no more* when installing critical parts like head gaskets no matter what wisdom Joe (or Guiseppe) might offer. (You do have the factory manual or something equally reliable like a Bentley, right?)

Carburetor cleaner (e.g., Gumout) and brake cleaner (e.g., Brakleen) on a rag both work great for degreasing and both evaporate quickly and completely with no residue. Acrylic lacquer thinner also works very well if you have some handy, but it costs more. On the cast iron block surface, a razor scraper should be able to remove the old gasket with little effort and little danger of damage. On the aluminum head surface, the razor scraper is too sharp and will easily carve out bits of aluminum you would really prefer to have stay attached to the head to provide a good seal.

I have had good luck with the end of a file, of a type not hatched for its full length, ground at about a 60 degree angle with respect to the major axis of the file until sharp and then *slightly* dulled. It will remove gasket material without doing much if any damage to the head. A machine shop can also dip the head for you at nominal cost, which will remove the gasket material or make what's left very easy to remove, but this requires that the head be completely disassembled.

HTH,

JRE

Reply to
JRE

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