Heater pipe and water pump replacement.

The heater bypass pipe is steel, on the water pump end, there is a rubber seal, which should be replaced, the end of the pipe will be corroded to a certain extent, but will probably still be good enough to seal again once the rubber is replaced. The new pump should come with a gasket, a seal for the top, and a seal for the bypass pipe. The bypass pipe is held on to the back of the pump by a small nut and bolt, the head of the bolt is a hex drive of all things!

If there is anything in your cooling system that might damage drive belts, then is already trying to escape through all your coolant hoses with extreme predjudice, in other words, don't worry about it!

BTW, when removing or replacing your water pump, be careful not to lose any nuts or studs into the timing belt cover, they are a real pain to get out, as some folk on here could testify, there a few cunning tricks to retrieving them, some of which I would never of thought of, but I've been lucky enough (so far) to not need them; just to be safe you could stuff some rags down into the cover, thus blocking it up. Also when replacing the pump, notice that some of the holes are elongated, this is to allow you to use them to fit the pump lower on the block initially and loosely, then lever the pump upwards into place, then pinch up the fastenings, the other bolts will line up correctly when the pump is positioned properly.

You could also use this opportunity to check on the condition and tension of your cambelt.

Good luck, Ken

Arrgh!

While trying to put on the new fuel pump, I dropped a nut into the lower timing belt cover. Arrgh again!

I have poked around in there with a collapsable magnetic probe. No luck.

Anybody got any special techniques for retrieving this bugger?

-Thanks in advance

-Matt

Hope you mean water pump.

As it happens, take a look at this earlier thread:

Apart from taking off the crankshaft pulley and removing the lower timing belt cover there is not a lot else you can do apart from dangling a small magnet on a piece of string. Do not attempt to start the car with this nut unrecovered.

Cheers, Peter.

: > > Howdy, : > >

: > > 87 740 GLE : > >

: > > Is the heater pipe brass? Should I be expecting to replace it when : > > replacing the pump or is this usually servicable? : >

: > The heater bypass pipe is steel, on the water pump end, there is a rubber : > seal, which should be replaced, the end of the pipe will be corroded to a : > certain extent, but will probably still be good enough to seal again once : > the rubber is replaced. : > The new pump should come with a gasket, a seal for the top, and a seal for : > the bypass pipe. The bypass pipe is held on to the back of the pump by a : > small nut and bolt, the head of the bolt is a hex drive of all things! : > >

: > > I haven't found a parts supplier that has this available on the net : > > and there is no local volvo dealer. Anybody know where I can get this : > > part? : > >

: > > Will the coolant rot my belts if it contacts them? : >

: > If there is anything in your cooling system that might damage drive belts, : > then is already trying to escape through all your coolant hoses with : > extreme predjudice, in other words, don't worry about it! : >

: > BTW, when removing or replacing your water pump, be careful not to lose any : > nuts or studs into the timing belt cover, they are a real pain to get out, : > as some folk on here could testify, there a few cunning tricks to : > retrieving them, some of which I would never of thought of, but I've been : > lucky enough (so far) to not need them; just to be safe you could stuff : > some rags down into the cover, thus blocking it up. Also when replacing the : > pump, notice that some of the holes are elongated, this is to allow you to : > use them to fit the pump lower on the block initially and loosely, then : > lever the pump upwards into place, then pinch up the fastenings, the other : > bolts will line up correctly when the pump is positioned properly. : >

: > You could also use this opportunity to check on the condition and tension of : > your cambelt. : >

: > Good luck, Ken

hello, stewart hargrove's link is very good!

i did the same. lucky for me, i had a role of magnetic tape i had for some project. it is 1/2 inch wide. i just stuck it down there and pulled it back out. got the nut the very first try.

bill

unrecovered.

OK,

I'm going to go ahead and pull the crankshaft pulley. Figure I might as well change all the belts while I'm in there. Went ahead and ordered the special pulley tool from IPD.

Question:

Which way does this pulley bolt turn to loosen? Is it normal, (CCW)?

Also whats the best way to remove the studs from the old water pump? Do I just put two nuts on, one after the other to provide tension, and then use a crescent wrench?

Perhaps I have exposed my niavity as a mechanic. But hey, everybody has to solve these problems the first time :-)

-Thanks!

-Matt

The bolt turns CCW to undo and needs a large amount of torque to do it up. I would imagine that there should be no reason to remove the studs if the water pump is held on with nuts. The pump has an up-down adjustment when in place and is pushed up and held up whilst tightening to ensure a good seal against the head.

Cheers, Peter.

: > Cheers, Peter. : >

: : OK, : : I'm going to go ahead and pull the crankshaft pulley. Figure I might : as well change all the belts while I'm in there. Went ahead and : ordered the special pulley tool from IPD. : : Question: : : Which way does this pulley bolt turn to loosen? Is it normal, (CCW)? : : Also whats the best way to remove the studs from the old water pump? : Do I just put two nuts on, one after the other to provide tension, and : then use a crescent wrench? : : Perhaps I have exposed my niavity as a mechanic. But hey, everybody : has to solve these problems the first time :-) : : -Thanks! : -Matt

Probably the best method is to use your approach and install four new studs. They're cheap and usually the old ones are well stretched from the previous installer overtorquing them.

Bob

Hey,

Thanks for the info.

I probably should have been more general with the stud question. It should have been:

How does one remove studs?

The water pump pulley is held to the water pump shaft with 4 studs. They are threaded into the shaft, but go through the pulley hub with nuts on the pulley hub side. Since there is only thread surface, I am guessing I just put two nuts sequentially on, and then back out the lower one to loosen, or tighten the upper one to tighten, and that the force between the two gives me my rotational force to remove the stud.

I am guessing this is the only to do it. But is there another way to do this or is there a special tool? This seems vaguely not-right to me for some reason. Not sure why, so I figured I'd ask.

-Thanks in Advance

-Matt

Thanks for the explanation of which studs you were referring to. I got my wires a little crossed. You are right to assume that the method you mentioned would be quite useful. You just have to make sure that the two nuts are firmly tightened against each other to clamp on the thread.

Cheers, Peter.

: > Cheers, Peter. : >

: > : > Cheers, Peter. : > : >

: > : : > : OK, : > : : > : I'm going to go ahead and pull the crankshaft pulley. Figure I might : > : as well change all the belts while I'm in there. Went ahead and : > : ordered the special pulley tool from IPD. : > : : > : Question: : > : : > : Which way does this pulley bolt turn to loosen? Is it normal, (CCW)? : > : : > : Also whats the best way to remove the studs from the old water pump? : > : Do I just put two nuts on, one after the other to provide tension, and : > : then use a crescent wrench? : > : : > : Perhaps I have exposed my niavity as a mechanic. But hey, everybody : > : has to solve these problems the first time :-) : > : : > : -Thanks! : > : -Matt

Howdy,

B230F, 87 740 GLE.

Well I took the crankshaft pulley off, and got the nut I dropped back in there. Went easier than I expected.

I noticed there is a slot on the back of the pulley and another one against the end of crankshaft where it bolts up to. There was however, no key that fit in that slot. (Is "key" the correct terminology?)

Should there be one? If so is this supposed to be copper or steel or what?

-Thanks

-Matt

You can buy steel key stock at the hardware store, In the USofA I would probably buy some thicker than I needed and file it down because I don't think you will find metric there.