hi, just got a 765 ti....1987

Well, that's a new one on me. However, your 1987 is in the range of Volvos with the biodegradable wiring, and if you look at some of the smaller wires under the hood you will probably find places the insulation is crumbling off. The actual solution is to replace the engine harness, which is a lot easier than it sounds. After I labeled the connectors with masking tape (using the place they broke out of the harness as a guide) it took half a Saturday to replace the entire harness, and it took that long only because I work very slowly. The harness replaces all the wiring from the connector behind the battery to the connector by the A/C receiver/drier. I paid $300 US for a new one, but somebody here will guide you to a source for a low miles used harness that won't crumble for about a third of that.

The hoses that connect the turbo through the intercooler and to the throttle body are probably at the end of their life unless they have been replaced. Ditto the hoses that connect the Idle Air Control Valve (under the throttle body) to the throttle body. If any of the turbo hoses are squishy they should be replaced before they leave you cursing beside the road. The symptom of a hole in one of those is that the engine runs fine until it gets over about 2K rpm, then the turbo dumps air out the hole and makes the mixture to rich. The engine stumbles badly until the turbo spins down, then it's fine again. A full set of turbo hoses (less the turbo inlet hose) will set you back about $200 US from the dealer. The turbo inlet hose is different; it is as expensive as all the other hoses together and is not as critical.

The voltage guage is part of the connectorized instrument panel. The easiest thing to do is pull the panel out and check out why the meter is doing nothing. It is trivial - IIRC it is nothing more than the two screws you can see from the driver's seat and unplugging the connectors when you get the panel out far enough.

thanks mike....

I gotta find out where to put my leads of the voltmenter to meter to check if the alternator is charging th ebattery.......

I guess I could start with thte batt terms, but wehere on the aloternator do I check?

it has a new wiring harness.....but it is a used one....hopefully it is not a bad used that is brittle vs a good used that has been updated.....

how do I tell the difference?

and , do the fuel injector wires run out of the engine harnes and into the fuel injectors?

thanks

al

Michael Pardee wrote:

Start with the battery. If you're getting proper voltage there, everything is OK.

If you see lots of crumbling insulation or tape on the wires near the connectors, you have a problem.

yes

so,

picked up the car...cahnged the battery....the PO didn't have water in the previous batt......

no improvement...also the pos batt terminal was really hot.....so, must be a curretn draw, right?

WENT thru all the fuses, and pulled out the ones that were not car engine keep running related.....

pulled the sunroof fuse....no improvement....

kept driving....

then....all of a sudden, the volt meter started reading correctly..

yahoo!

don't knwo if it ws the sunroff fuse, gotta put in a new one....I dropped in down the console!

but is works....

now...I might get an adjustable regulator....any of you guys use those? the volts are at about 12V would like to see 14- 14.5V

any thoughts>?

but glad to have that taken care of....

now, I have front brake problems,.....another story!

big al

Mike F wrote: