Just seized my engine in my baby

88 740 Turbo. Water pump went, next day the engine seized. So the question is: what sort of engine am I looking for as a replacement? Does it have to be same year make and model, or is there latitude with these sort of things? The corollary-question is: anybody parting with what I need?

Thanks.

-- James.

Reply to
JungleAcid
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Any engine from any 700/900 turbo will work (assuming you're in USA/Canada). It'll be easiest to use your manifolds/turbo as there are detail differences in various years, and even within the same year.

Reply to
Mike F

well,......... you asked.............ha, ha, ha. ..... if the car is in good shape you can replace it with a "volvo" engine such as it had orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, you could have a V-8. I converted my Volvo with a Ford 5.0 H.O.+ T-5 transmission, from an '89 Mustang, and it's been great. Fits without butchering the car and I could change it back to it's original B21FT without anyone being able to tell, but I won't ;-) Herman, '83 282 Ford 5.0 H.O. formerly 242 Turbo intercooled.

Reply to
Herman

You need a B230FT, anything from an '85 740T to a '94 940T would work, but the '89 and newer engines are generally stronger than the originals, the '94 is the best of the bunch, but all will perform equally in stock configuration. I can hook you up with an '87 B230FT core if you're near Seattle, needs a rebuild but it's not siezed, but your best bet to get the car running is probably to look for a junkyard and pull a good motor, again near Seattle I know where you can get a complete engine for $150.

Reply to
James Sweet

hey jungle acid...i saw your posting in the volvo newsgroup re a replacement volvo engine...

i am working on (way over boostin) a 1993 940t... i have been advised to look for a spare motor, in the event we "blow out" the current engine...we are runnin

14 - 16 psi boost and "driving it like we stole it"...so far...so good...

but, since i am not in a hurry now...i am casually shopping for a replacement turbo...i now have a b230ft... so, i would be looking for something that would "fit right in"...

your advise would be appreciated, along with how much $ i should count on spending...i live right outside of boulder, co...

thank you !!

richard colorado

Reply to
~^ beancounter ~^

Reply to
Marky

The Chevy small blocks require alot more "fitting". Problems with distributor clearance at firewall, tranny hump needs to be expanded etc., ...... Chevy parts are in abundance though. Herman '83 282 5.0 H.O. formerly 242 turbo intercooled.

Reply to
Herman

The Chevy small blocks require alot more "fitting". Problems with distributor clearance at firewall, tranny hump needs to be expanded etc., ...... Chevy parts are in abundance though. Herman '83 282 5.0 H.O. formerly 242 turbo intercooled.

Reply to
Herman

SBC is a drop-in fit. That's with the big-cap Chev HEI dissy. It just needs to be a "short water pump" chev. (shorter pump, shorter crank pulley and different accessory brackets - basically the pre-'70 style.)

I bent the flange across the firewall to make sure that the cap would go on and off, but it was not really needed. No trans tunnel mods. The only body mod was that I used a V8 chev down-flow radiator and had to bash the top of the front body crossmember down to get the radiator to fit. A late model V8 cross-flow radiator wouldn't need that - I just used as many existing parts as possible.

New crossmember bolted through the chassis rails ahead of the suspension crossmember to take the stock chev engine mounts.

Stock chev '70s-'80s passenger car sump.

Using a T350 auto, you just need to remember to trim the assembly lugs off the bellhousing before installing. I didn't know that, and had to cut one off in situ. Supposedly, I used the wrong gearbox crossmember. I used the V6 one that I had, with a small plate welded to the front of it to bolt the GM mount to. I've since read that if I'd used a 4-cyl crossmember, the GM mount would have bolted straight to the crossmember. Original Volvo auto shifter adapted to the T350 by cutting and shortening the Volvo selector linkage rod and filing the hole in the Volvo lever to fit onto the T350.

I think that the T700R4, 4L60, 4L60E bolt in without any trans tunnel mods, too. I remember seeing one with a T700R4 a few years ago. I don't know if T400 or 4L80E would fit without tunnel mods - I think they might.

Tailshaft is a shortened GM item with a spicer rear weld yoke.

Speedo cable is a GM item adapted to the Volvo speedo with a small turned brass bush.

Power steering pump is the original GM Saginaw item from the Volvo V6, and has been mounted to the front of the Chev block using a new bracket.

The only real hassle I had was with the exhaust. Chose the best cast iron manifolds I could get and then got the exhaust guy to fabricate an ugly engine pipe to suit. One of these years, I'll get a custom set of extractors made.

The only accessory that I haven't re-fitted yet is the A/C compressor. I'll have to make new brackets for that, and will probably start on that in the next few months. I have the alternator high-mounted on the left side, so the V6's GM Delco A/C compressor will go back in its original position.

Reply to
athol

I'd suggest a newer model. The car's pretty much a write-off at that age. A newer 940 or 850 turbo would be just right :)

Reply to
Joseph Oberlander

A write off? Screw that, he could have it running for a few hundred dollars, '88 is a great year, I love my '87, if the engine ever dies I won't hesitate to have it rebuilt.

Reply to
James Sweet

A *good* rebuild last I checked was about $1200. Given the age of most of the subsystems on the car, why NOT get a 940 turbo or a 850 turbo?

Reply to
Joseph Oberlander

A good rebuild is closer to $2000, but he said the car was his baby, as is mine, and I know I wouldn't hesitate to have my engine rebuilt, the car is way too nice to junk. 940's are nice, but only available as automatics, the

850's look nice but I dislike the FWD.
Reply to
James Sweet

Are you sure? I remember seeing a manual as an option on a 940 at one time. Oh - I know of a place that will do a good rebuild for $1200 and give a 60K warranty on the work. Most places, though - yeah - they will charge you nearly the price of a new negine.

Reply to
Joseph Oberlander

You could get a 900 series with a manual in Europe but not in the US.

Is that with a new turbocharger though? That alone is around $800 for the Mitsubishi, if the engine needs rebuilding the turbo could likely use it as well. I've heard though that some places will replace the bearings and seals for considerably less than a remanufactured cartridge costs.

Reply to
James Sweet

Ah. Correct memory. Wrong side of the pond. :)

That would be with the old turbo. If his turbo is nearly worn out, it might be better to find another simmilar vehicle in better condition.

Reply to
Joseph Oberlander

Are you trying to sell a 940 or what? He's made it clear he wants to repair his car, there's nothing wrong with a 740, if it's in decent shape there's no reason not to fix it, if it's not worth rebuilding the motor, then there's always the good used motor option, it could be on the road again for well under $500. If one is to rebuild an engine it would be silly not to have the turbo rebuilt as well, it's just sloppy work to put an old used turbo on a new motor.

Reply to
James Sweet

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