Nice 740 volvo estate for sale.

Somehow I've ended up with two volvos, an 850 and a 740. I don't want to, but I've decided it's time for the 740 to go.The volvo is a 740 estate. late

1988 (they revised the model with a lot of modifications in this year). It's a 1998cc in line 4 cylinder fuel injected. I am the second owner of the car which I bought in 1990.The bodywork is good apart from a small dent on the front o/s wing. The car is in a striking light blue with chrome trim and tow bar and electrics. Electric windows, heated seats, electric mirrors and power stearing. the interior is good with blue pinstripe seats. I have a brand new, never used set of tailor made seat covers which I will throw in free of charge as well as a haynes manual. The car has approx 9 months mot. The tax runs out at the end of september. It has had regular oil and filter changes.

The car has had new front discs 30k mile ago. It's had new cam belt and fan belts about a couple of months ago, new radiator and new exhaust front pipe and first box (the rest of the exhaust is in good condition), new handbrake cable and new exhaust manifold gasket and new tailgate struts a short while ago. The engine is good with 170,000 miles on it. All the tyres are like brand new. the car was serviced about 6000 miles ago when i told the garage to go through it from front to back bumper. The fuel injection system has been completely overhauled. All receipts are there for anyone to see.

Now the bits that need attention. It drops a small amount of oil which i usually top up about once a month. I have replaced the fuel gauge but it is still erratic (a usual problem with this model). I just need time to do it again, it's a simple repair. The front passenger central lock motor is in need of replacement and the drivers door catch need attention. It shuts so long as you do it gently. the drivers door glass is in need of replacement £14 from Halfords. the rear light has a chip in it, it's not an mot fail and is not in need of replcement apart from cosmetic reasons (new one £40)

I wasn't meaning to replace this car and it was when i went for the new fuel guage i saw the 850, then volvo greed took over and before i knew where i was i ended up with 2 volvos.We wanted to keep the 740, it's been so handy but it's in the way and extra expense.

Based on this and other 740 cars in the second hand market , make me an offer what you think it's worth. I will try to answer any questions you may have as honestly as possible.

Roy

Reply to
Roy Bolton
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Should've said am in Manchester uk and it's the drivers door MIRROR glass that wants replacing.

Roy

Reply to
Roy Bolton

hope you have had the air con checked out, the 850 suffer from leaks, i have just had my internal air con unit replaced, non volvo garage: £498.00.

apart from that i think my 850 is great.

1996/7 model 2.5 20v got all i need even down to a 6 cd changer.

now looking for a tow bar for it.

whats yours like (the car i mean)

colin

Reply to
Alfred J Peasmold-Gruntbuttock

replacement

Reply to
noreply

the colour is light blue.

message

Reply to
Roy Bolton

Roy.

Is the interior also blue, how much are you looking for.

Reply to
noreply

Interior is a blue pinstipe. What do you think it's worth?

Reply to
Roy Bolton

I note that you have in common with many/most 740 owners had problems with you fuel gauge/sender. You say that you have repaired it in the past and that it is simple to do. Are you meaning that you simply replaced the gauge or something further? I have replaced the gauge and the sender and still have an erratic reading. Fairly sure its not the earth. Just wondering if you have found the secret to Volvo gauges. Apparently man can get to the moon but Volvo can't make a reliable fuel gauge/sender! But why would they at their charge for replacement sender unit? I would be grateful if you or anyone else can enlighten me with a fix for the damn thing. TH

Reply to
aesychalus

I've never encountered a fuel gauge problem in any Volvo other than the cluster regulator failing on the early 240's. I'm curious to know more about this.

Reply to
James Sweet

I am curious as James Sweet is never seen a post here about fuel/sending or guage reading problem, I hope people aren't stealing gas right out of your tank? The fuel pumps last pretty long too why would the senders be poorly made? Oh well, I'll just add my 2 cents here anyway. the fIrst one may be somewhat of a joke, but I really didn't mean it that way. If you cannot get any other solution than you'll have to resort to some better system like I describe below TO MONITOR GAS LEVEL IN THE TANK.

1) CHOICE (I'm sorry but I can't help myself) fill the gas tank before it's dry and forget the fuel sending unit issue all togther. Ah, common it is conceivable that one can know by how many klms driven how much gas should be consumed, THEREFORE HOW MUCH SHOULD BE LEFT IN THE PETROL TANK. Trick may be to always fill her to the top! 2) CHOICE WOULD BE DIAGNOSE IF THE DASH cluster HAS A PROBLEM WHICH MIGHT MEAN CHANGING THE SPEEDO AT SAME TIME, SURELY A WRECKER SHOULD BE ABLE TO DIG UP A USED DASH/SPEEDO HEAD UNIT, IN THE OFF CHANCE THAT THE GUAGE IS NOT THE PROBLEM. TRUTH IS I DO NOT KNOW IF THE SPEEDO CAN BE SEPARATED FROM CLUSTER WITH OUT BREAKING IT?
Reply to
dan

Yes it can, there's a bunch of screws on the back of the cluster and the whole thing comes apart relatively easily. It's a little more intricate than that in a 240 but still not too bad, all the guages can be removed separately.

Reply to
James Sweet

I'm not familiar wtih 740, but I did have two 240's with failed fuel gauges. In one case, the gauge was erratic and moved about nonsensically. In the other case the indicator always sat in zero. Both had the same electronic problem. There was a little printed circuit board, about 2 x 10 cm, which plugged into the back of the instrument cluster and amplified the signal from the tank sender. On the first car, I replaced the PCB with a new one from Volvo for about $80. The second time, since I now had a spare (broken) PCB, I took a stab at fixing it by replacing the only active component, an op-amp (LM324?), with a Radio Shack equivalent, swapped that one back into the other 240, and it worked fine thereafter.

Reply to
Robert Lutwak

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