No one will change Trans Fluid in 84 245

I have a 1984 245 Wagon with 183,000 miles on it, and the auto tranny shifts great, except it has trouble getting into reverse when hot. Some here have suggested a fluid flush might help, but now twice when I've had it at mechanics (two different ones) for other routine stuff, oil changes & such, I've asked to have the tranny fluid replaced, and they've advised against it... They say that with 183,000 miles on the tranny, it's better to leave it alone.

So what do I do? Knowing trannies, this problem will eventually get worse. My affordable Volvo guy doesn't do trannies, my Volvo dealer service is crooked ($400 for a muffler... I'll never make that mistake again), and I'm afraid that if I take it to an AAMCO or such, they'll automatically say I need a new tranny.

To put it another way: What other repair might help when a fluid flush is verboten and a new tranny impractical?

Reply to
naverillsn001
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I think they are afraid that by changing the fluid, they may cause it to start leaking or something equally bad.... While that could happen, I can only say that I changed the tranny fluid on my '89 240 about 2 years ago with the help of a neighbor. Took about 40 minutes, and I used some synthetic fluid (really taking a chance there!). All we did was disconnect one of the lines at the radiator (don't recall which one it was, but can check), hooked a hose to it and ran it into a plastic jug to catch the old fluid. I ran the engine until the flow decreased (that's why you need a helper), shut it down, poured in about the same amount of fresh fluid, and repeated the flush. As I recall, we did that a total of 3 times, and it was running pretty clear the last time, so I replaced the fluid with the more expensive sythetic and reconnected the line to the radiator. Hardly spilled a drop, no special tools, and no problems. I had a little short of 200,000 miles on it when we did that.

Reply to
Perry Noid

I might add that if any filings are trapped at bottom of pan and/or a filter is used in this system, the simple draining of transmission fluid by the pressure hose is not very beneficial. Usually garages only remove a pan leaving 2/3rds still left (OLD) in torque convertor (I think even that is a waste of money) Better get a proper fluid flush where all transmission fluid is replaced and new pan gasket and filter (if equiped) is all replaced. That is a true transmission service. Problem not many repair shops will do it. I would search out one who will do it. Having said all this, it's rather doubtful the transmission service will probably not solve a slipping in reverse.

Dan

Reply to
Danil

The plastic jug flush works just fine. Remove the top trans cooler line hose from the radiator. The fluid should go into the bottom of the of the radiator and exit out the top connector. Can bump the ing key to see if the fluid runs out of the top rad connector. Go to any hardware and get about 10 feet of 1/2 inch clear plactic tubing. Slip the tubing over the radiator male threads of the upper trans/radiator connector. get 1 hose clamp just in case you need to secure the hose to the fitting. Put the other end into a 5 gallon plastic bucket. Use a garbage bag tie to secure the hose to the bail of the bucket. Pour at least 4 quart of new oil into the transmission. Start engine and pour some more oil in. Can wait untill you get air in the line but you do not have too. Once the oil in the clear line runs clean, reconnect cooling line, check and adjust the fluid as needed. This is the exact same thing that any transmission flush machine can and will do. This will get 99.99999% of the old oil out. The only old oil will be on the one cooler line that you reconnect. There are transmission cleaners that you put in the trans oil, drive the car for a few miles, then do the flush. There are also tranmission oil conditioners that you put in after a flush. Use a quality name brand cleaner/conditioner. The total flush will take between 8 and 12 quarts. By a case of trans oil and flush the whole 12 quart. Will not hurt a thing. This will not correct or improve any worn or failing mechanical parts. No flush will. Is ther play in the shifter? The linkage bushings might be gone.

BD

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Reply to
Big Dick

Just out of interest the ATF should be changed every 30,000 miles for AW or ZF transmissions. If using fully synthetic ATF then change every 80,000 miles in older autoboxes (100,000 miles if AW3040/3 series electronically controlled auto boxes).

Cheers, Peter.

Reply to
Peter K L Milnes

Is it necessary to change the filter as well? I called the dealer to get a filter for my '01 s60, and he said there is no filter for that tranny. Is that possible? He also said that although that tranny is designed for synthetics, if it weren't a synthetic couldn't be used. Until I resolve this I'm not doing anything with the box.

p.

Reply to
pb

This may sound a little off the wall, but...take it to your local oil change guy. Instruct them to flush/fill your system, give them the 60$ and you are out of there. I went to Wal-Mart with a couple of gallons of synthetic fluid, told them what to do, and in 30 mins I was all done, and the car shifts smooth as silk.

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RS

Reply to
Rusty

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