picked up my new 1985 240 DL Wagon today

I finally finished the paperwork and brought the car home today. I'm thankful the engine is the same B230F as my 1987 740. Now the question is, "where to begin?"

The oil leak is the obvious so I think I'll start there. I jacked up the car and crawled underneath - looks like I'll have to pull some body armor off to access the oil pan bolts to tighten.

On top of the engine the early plan is to replace the plugs, wires, rotor and cap. Replace the flame trap and clean the breather box. Replace air filter. Clean throttle body. Check vacuum hoses.

Question: Above and to the right of the oil filter is some type of plug/sensor. There is exposed wire going into that sensor. Is that some type of oil pressure sensor? Expensive to replace?

Well, that's where I am now. It's deja vu all over again in the garage.

LOL

PS: I need to get a Bentley manual. Are they much better than Haynes?

Thanks, Jamie

Reply to
Jamie
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Yes.....the bentley manual is well worth the $50. It is MUCH better than the haynes manual. You will however find that repairs cost you more with the bentley manual since it tells you the right way to do things, all the proper hardware to replace, etc.

Reply to
zoltamatron

Cylindrical object with a single male spade connector coming out the middle? That would be *the* oil pressure sender. If it works, don't fix it.

Reply to
clay

Just curious, if the oil pressure sender was faulty, what would the signs be?

Thanks, Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

In mine, it's an idiot light... the light would stay on. Which is what happens every time the spade connector wiggles loose.

If the light comes on when the ignition is turned on and goes off soon as the motor lights, all is well.

Reply to
clay

That's the oil pressure sender, it also has a connection to control the idiot light in the instrument cluster. The sensors can fail, but usually it's just the wiring that crumbles, that's part of the infamous engine wiring harness.

Reply to
James Sweet

The guage will read incorrectly or be pegged, and the idiot light will either be stuck on, or will not come on at all.

Reply to
James Sweet

Other things to do:

Replace gas filter

Replace all fluids: coolant, power steering, transmission, rear end

Check and if necessary replace belts / hoses

Examine condition of timing belt and replace if necessary

Replace fuel injector seal(s) and clean / test injectors

Lubricate all areas of car which require lube

Reply to
Mr. V

Check around the valve cover for leaks first.

Drain and replace ALL fluids and replace any filters. Replace ALL belts.

Why do you want to replace it.

Sggest that you get Volvo manuals.

Reply to
Roadie

The valve cover goes on with a thin gasket and a rubber "half-moon seal". If the half moon falls out/fails then oil will leak down the back of the engine while driving. It's about a half inch thick half-circle with a diameter of about one inch.

Reply to
blurp

Degrease the engine area first, so that you, hopefully, can see where the oil is leaking from.

Perk (:>)

Roadie wrote:

Reply to
Perk

Thanks all for the input. As far as my oil leak, I was able to isolate it to the front passenger side corner of the oil pan. That was the "street assessment" and I need to get the car jacked up to see it closer.

My plan is to do the obvious tune up I mentioned, to make sure the engine is at least starting and idling smoothly, and without any excess pressure from something like the flame trap.

it is indeed the oil pan gasket, I am trying to get an understanding of just how hard the job is. I've thumbed through my 1987 740 Haynes manual because it's the same B230F engine as the 1985 240.

I understand the process of jacking up the car, remove the dipstick, disconnect part of the exhaust and steering, remove the body guard, unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine, remove the oil pan and replace the gasket. This is a broad overview.

My curiosity is, how hard is it to remove the splash pan? Are the bolts on the oil pan all easy to get to? Is it tricky to unbolt the motor mounts?

I remember changing the blower motor in my 740. It looked easy in the book, until I couldn't get to all of the bolts. The second time was fine because I did it before, and the 740 was much better than I hear the 240 is. Still, the plan looked easy but was a pain in the butt because of minor things.

Thanks!

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

None of the bolts are hard to get to, there are a few on the oil pan that will be blocked by the crossmember, but you can reach them with a standard box end wrench. Splash pan is held on by half a dozen bolts in plain view.

Reply to
James Sweet

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