Hi, I have an 850 estate T5, the rear wiper has become very slow and sometimes stops halfway across the window so I have to get out and push it to the park position. Before I take things apart, can anyone offer any advice as to what the problem might be? Bigger question, has anybody changed the headgasket on an 850, and is it a huge job?! Grateful for any advice! Thanks Paul
Mine doesn't work at all, neither does the electric lock - the cable is broken at the hinge, but too lazy to fix it right now. I don't even want to think about head gaskets.
Headgaskets...oh dear, lots of potential for a bodge job here. Do not attempt to do it on the cheap- you'll have worse problems than before you started!
Its not an easy nor quick job on a T5, the turbo has to come off the head before you can remove it- catches on the bulkhead- and that means potential for sheared off studs etc. If the car has done big miles and you intend to keep it (150k or more) consider having the turbo overhaulled as its a total pig to remove at a later date.
I would be prepared for this, as you will need a machine shop at your disposal to give it a light skim (even if it checks out as not warped) and x ray it for cracks, and re-tap the odd thread which has sheared off, which there will be! (exhaust manifold is a favourite)
Aside from that, you'll either need a set of stretch bolts, cambelt, tensioner, idler, probably waterpump and the volvo tools or make them yourself a) to hold the cams properly aligned in the top secton of the cam cover as you lower it back on, and b) a set of pullers to pull the cam section back onto the head against the valve springs.
There is no gasket between the head and cam carrier section (liquid gasket from volvo and a short hair roller- do NOT use silicone)
Likewise there are 2 headgaskets depending on which breed of the B5234T you have- check the cam belt cover.
Hope this helps abit!
Tim..
Actually, I found the turbo comes off quite easily - aside from the broken stud problem. You can avoid broken studs by heating each nut on the exhaust/turbo cherry red before removal. The exhaust manifold can stay on the head while the turbo is removed, although it will have to come off for head work of course.
When separating the upper part of the head (cam carrier section), you absolutely must pull straight up. If you pry one end up with a screwdriver or prybar you WILL break the casting.
And the potential for oil leaks if you don't use the proper sealer and apply it with the proper roller is astronomically high.
The rear wiper problem is likely to be corrosion inside the pivot. You should be able to remove the assembly, push the shaft out of the pivot and clean off the corrosion and relubricate. I've never done a rear one, but have done several fronts.
Good advice Mike, I should have said about pulling the cam carrier off squarely (they are very tight) and more importantly, pulling it back down squarely too.
I've never had oil leak problems but then I always use the proper sealer with the shorthair roller.
I would add to your info though, that exhaust manifold removal *is* necessary before head removal on our UK right hand drive cars because the brake servo is in the way, which it isnt on LHD cars.
To the OP- I would be wondering why you have HGF, as it is pretty rare on the B5's unless there is an underlying problem like a failed cooling fan (pretty common) thermostat or other circulatory problem.
That said big mileage cars where the coolant has not been changed every 2yrs do suffer with head problems- corrosion and porousity spring to mind. You may find your head is scrap cos its porous or cracked if the motor has seriously overheated.
Tim..
OK, I should have thought of the right hand drive difference given the word "estate". I can agree that a booster and master cylinder in the identical spot on the opposite side will cause a little grief.
If you have some studs that are long enough, it is possible to pull the upper part of the head down evenly - however removal is a little trickier.
The tools I have fashioned a-la Mr Haynes are 3 sawn off spark plugs with threaded bar welded in, a drilled cross piece and a nut on the thread against the cross piece which spans the cam cover.
Installed at no1, 3 and 5 spark plug holes, you can pull the cam carrier back down in complete control and parallel to the head section.. Removing it in the first place is not as easy though!
Tim..
Appreciate all your advice Gentlemen! Ok, so the head is a bit of a nightmare! Going to have to give that some thought - not sure whether there is a problem there other than the water always seems dirty and I have a little emulsification on the top inch of the dipstick. That could be due to moisture maybe? Engine did get hot once due to failed thermostat but was only on the first edge of the red zone! I will certainly start with the rear wiper - I should be able to manage that! Many thanks again!
A little of that stuff on the top of the dipstick is not that abnormal - the water vapour that exists inside the crankcase that condense up there due to the remote location in the cold airflow. If the PCV system is in good working order (not clogged) this will be minimized. Unfortunately, the oil trap will need to be changed if clogged, it located under and requires removal of the intake manifold. However that's not too hard to do, certainly a lot simpler than a cylinder head! The PCV hoses go under the intake manifold, under the distributor behind the engine and down to the plastic hose at the turbo inlet. These also need to be clean, as well as the heated nipple on that inlet hose.
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