S40 hard starting/long crank time (still!)

Hi all,

I've posted this before and am still battling the same problem. In brief:

THE CAR: 2001 S40 1.9T (auto with about 250K).

THE PROBLEM: Hard starting, long cranking time.

OBSERVATIONS:

  1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold (sitting for more than one hour). Car starts best in extreme sub-zero temperatures
  2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's a strong smell of gasoline
  3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak battery.
  4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
  5. Once it stumbles up to normal idle and then it idles smoothly. This stumbling lead-up to normal idle has lit the CHECK ENGINE light.

STEPS TAKEN:

  1. New spark plugs installed (and properly gapped)
  2. New wireset to plugs installed
  3. New ingition coil packs installed
  4. Installation of exhaust gas venting valve as per Technical Service Bulletin (specifically meant to address long cranking time)

I took the car to a small shop here in Toronto originally suggesting the fuel pressure regulator be examined but they dismissed this, citing that the smell of unburned fuel indicates that the regulator was delivering fuel as it should. I later asked if he used an external fuel pressure guage to test it and he said he had but I'm not entirely sure he did. In my mind too much fuel would be just as detrimental as not enough.

Any further ideas? Does all of this point even more strongly toward the regulator? Is there any way I can test it before dropping another $300?

Your suggestions, comments, and questions are welcomed.

Thanks in advance, blurp

Reply to
blurp
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You try a series of short cranks? Let the motor turn over 3 or 4 times. Stop for a second or two then repeat. If it doesn't catch by the third or fourth try, forget it. That wasn't it.

Reply to
clay

Reply to
Advanced Kitty

That was suggested by the sh> If it doesn't catch by the third or fourth try, forget it. That wasn't it.

If it doesn't catch then WHAT wasn't it? What can I rule out?

Thanks, blurp

Reply to
blurp

Do you know of any way to test that? If so I'll check it out.

Thanks, blurp

Reply to
blurp

Reply to
Advanced Kitty

Some fuel injection systems (FI) have logic circuits in them. If there's no fuel pressure then the system doesn't provide spark. Many FI bleed pressure when they sit. When you jump in and turn the key there's no pressure, therefore no spark. As you leave it turning over it builds fuel pressure but nothing there to lite it. Release the key once and try it again. The cycle starts over except now there is pressure so now you get spark and it fires. If it doesn't, then that's not it. As Mr. V pointed out in another thread, you can use a timing light to see if the plugs are sparking.

Reply to
clay

Check Engine Light On or Off @ this point I would take a trip to your local Volvo Dealer & Have them Diagnose your problem most likely it will cost you 1 Hour @ whatever there labor rate is before dropping $300.00 for a part that you are not sure if it is needed or not if the dealer comes back & tells you that you need the fuel pressure regulator then purchase & do it yourself G Klein Volvo Certified Technician 2009 ASE Certified Technician 2009

Reply to
GlennK

Thanks all for the terrific insight, I have a few leads to follow up on. The garage has offered to help track this oddity down with no labor charge.

The battery, I am told, was tested but a start test was not performed. I have a voltmeter so I can check some of that myself.

I recall the 240 having a common fuel pressure-related starting problem when the car was hot because the elastic membrane that was meant to keep pressure once the fuel pump stopped would deteriorate and fail. It seems the FPR on this car has the same problem and may be prone to a similar failure.

Can the easy starting in extreme cold temperatures be a clue to anything?

Thanks for all the input, I'll start checking these things out and report back.

Cheers, blurp ps. The car has almost 250K km (not miles) on it.

Reply to
blurp

It was the fuel pressure regulator! A test for this part is simple:

With the car switched off and cold gently pull off the S-shaped vaccum line where it connects to the underside of the regulator. If a drop of gas drips out of the regulator from the connection point then the part needs replacing.

Thanks all for your help and input.

Cheers, blurp

Reply to
blurp

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