Is there something I'm missing? I can't get the front rotors on my S70 to separate from the hub. I took the locator pin out, but they are pretty stuck to the bearing hubs. The discs on my 20 year old
140 weren't this hard to knock off a few years ago, my 10 year old 240 nowhere near as hard, and the S70 is only about a seven years old. What gives? Do I just have to hit them with a bigger hammer?Frustrated right now...
Jim Carriere wrote in news:90b32$428627c0$ce94544d$ snipped-for-privacy@DIALUPUSA.NET:
I was perplexed when I first did this too. pin and caliper are all I remember that holds the rotor on (wheel too, of course). It has been a while......
I put some anti-sieze on the contact surfaces of the hub-rotor to prevent this in the future. Made a big difference the second time around.
Just in case I am miss remembering this, the emeregency brake system is on the rear on this model? You did not mention a model year. I found the rotor removal on the e-brake "axle" to be more challanging. it seems to me that the e-brake pads end up removing a ridge of rust on the rotor to be able to seperate them.
let us know how you make out.
Thanks for the support :) Yep, it was a matter of hitting it hard enough. One of the rotors was really really stuck on there. The other one wasn't too bad at all, although it had been off a couple years ago for a new wheel bearing on that side. I'd tried to do the bearing myself, but gave up and brought it to the dealer when I couldn't get the rotor off.
The one that was stuck cracked from my hitting it, that's pretty bad. I have a feeling that when my car was assembled there was no grease, antisieze, whatever, put between the rotors and the hubs. You can bet I did today though. Anyway...
Yes, the emergency brake is a drum brake within each rear rotor. You can adjust the brake shoes without removing the rear disc/drum, and you should back them off all the way before trying to remove the disc/drum. The problem is that adjusting them is difficult to describe without pictures or if no one is around to show you.
In answer to your question my car is a 98 base model.
Jim Carriere wrote in news:ef63f$42866d3f$ce94546a$ snipped-for-privacy@DIALUPUSA.NET:
Yep I got a 98 base in the family too that I get to do some work on.
In the past when I did the rears, even after fully adjusting the e-brake pads out of the way as far as possible, that rust lip on the corner of the rotor was an issue. Had to horse it past the lip. I was concerned that I would shatter the e brake shoe lining.
I will soon be taking on the alternator swap. Am looking for info for that task. Want to minimize the parts to remove so I can get to the alternator. It looks like a bit of a pain.
The replacement does not have a pulley on it so I have to remove the old one. I would like to know the correct torque for the pulley nut. Come to think of it the torque for the other fasteners would be great too.
Glad you got the rotor thing done!!
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