shocks: volvo original versus monroe

Jerrad at IPD pointed me to this solution, which solved my similar noise problem recently on my 91 240:

There is a fastening nut, maybe called the glan nut or cap nut, midway up the length of the strut assembly that can make a lot of noise over small and medium bumps. It's not unusual for this nut to loosen over time. It holds the shock absorber insert to the strut assembly. To reach it, jack up this corner tire (right front). This will extend the shock and spring and give you a workspace between the top of the tire and the wheel well opening. Turn your steering wheel all the way to the right. Reaching inside the right suspension spring, lift the protective rubber sleeve a few inches to reveal this cap nut. You will only see the top lip of this nut, because its threads are down inside of the strut assembly. With a plumber's pipe wrench, slide wrench through the spring to grip the slightly noched top edge of the cap nut and tighten about the same torque as lug nuts (gut feel method). If this is loose more than 1/2 turn, it is probably the culprit.

Other suspects to test for include worn ball joints, worn bushings occuring anywhere over 100,000 miles (average, but many owners last much longer). A little less likely is loose bolts/nuts on suspension/steering, but should not be overlooked. Also, it maybe the shock, but I'm less knowledgeable about various brands of shocks and construction.

P.S. - Never forget to secure the jack with a proper lift tool. If the car slips from the flimsy jacking tool while you have your hands working with the cap nut, goodbye fingers and hands.

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This sounds like you're talking about the _front_ struts.

I'd strongly suggest that getting the correct tool (a C-spanner) would be far more appropriate.

Of course, Bilstein inserts use a completely different design of nut and come with a special tool, which can only be used with the top bearing and spring removed from the strut... Not that they need to be tightened again if installed with the original tool and a torque wrench.

This is a significant advantage of the correct spanner. It hooks into one of the notches in the nut and no part of the hand needs to go between the spring coils.

I'd be guessing that is the _rear_ shock absorbers?

If you're getting a clunking noise as the accelerate or decelerate, I'd be looking at the bush at the back of the lower control arm, which is pressed into the axle housing. The right side is usually the first to fail. If course, there are plenty of other parts that can be loose or worn.

The wear parts that knock in the rear are the shocks and trailing arm rear bushings and stabilizer (or reaction rod or stay rod) bushings. The bushings will make noise whenever the car is moved forward or back as well as when transversing bumps. Shocks make more or a rattley noise when reacting to small bumps in the road. The upper and lower shock bushings wear and allow the shock reaction to bumps to create a knock.

Bob

Well if it is the front suspension I can tell you from experience that the cartridge insert can sometimes sieze in the compressed position, effectively eliminating its function. The cartridge, now loose and free to travel in the strut, makes a helluva bang when the spring is compressed without the damping and the cartridge hits the top.

When this happened to me I thought the strut was going to blow right through the hood.

I now have Monroe on the back and Gabriel on the front and I'm very disappointed by the mushy feel of the ride. Save up for the Bilsteins!

Live and learn. blurp

On 4 Nov 2004 07:04:29 GMT, the illustrious athol favored us with the following prose:

I'm very happy to say that my '80 model now has Bilsteins front and rear.

I rebuilt the entire front end a few months ago. New urethane bushes in the lower arms (old rubber removed using thinners, not burning!), '81-on struts with new bearings, '78 front springs (heavier).

Unfortunately, I made the mistake of fitting a pair of apparently good old top bearings. The rubber of one has now split and will need changing soon. Time for a pair of aftermarket adjustables, I think.