Timing belt rode off

All,

I installed a new timing belt yesterday on my '90 240DL. Not too complicated. I was glad I bought that special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley. Slight problem on re-assembly.

The Haynes manual is a bit out of sequence on re-assembly. They instruct to torque up the belt tensioner before installing/torquing the crankshaft pulley. Problem with that is you have to have the tensioner nut off to install that crank-holding tool to tighten the crank pulley bolt.

The next problem was my fault, I failed to re-tighten the tensioner bolt. So, after startup, with the tensioner pulley misaligned (not tightened down), the timing belt rode half off the camshaft pulley, burning a neat slice through the timing belt cover in just a few seconds. I shut it down before it rode completely off the camshaft and intermediate (BTW, what the hell does this intermediate shaft do? Just hold a pulley?)shaft pulleys.

So, I'll need a new timing belt cover. Duct tape won't last forever.

How about that belt, though? Does anyone think I damaged it when it ran half-off the pulleys?

By the way, I didn't bother with the oil seals. THey weren't leaking and looked pristine. Also, I didn't want to spend the price for the two seal drivers and the pulley holder to do that job. Also, I left the water pump alone. It wasn't leaking either. I know some things are better replaced before they fail. Any comments on my choice not to fool with those components?

Reply to
J Ohlsson
Loading thread data ...

In article , snipped-for-privacy@hawaii.rr.com by J Ohlsson dropped his wrench, scratched his head and mumbled,

I always tighten the crank pulley, then turn the motor over a few times by hand slacken the tensioner nut, press the idler wheel full tight with a long screwdriver, then tighten the nut, turn the motor over two more times, then slacken the nut, let the belt find its tension against the spring. retighten and cover. For some reason, whenever you take the idler assembly off the motor (for inspection, seal replacement, whatever) you don't always see that the pin that engages the head is cocked. Then when the nut is tightened the belt is overtight and creeps of the end of the cam shaft. If this seems like too much trouble, consider the expense of not doing it on a 16, 20 or 24 valve engine with a manual tensioner.

When the red motor was a pushrod design the shaft that holds the jack shaft pulley did three things: it was the cam shaft, and it had a gear to turn the distributor and oil pump. With the overhead cam design all it has to do is turn the distributor and oil pump on the 240 application. On the 740 application with cam driven distributor it just drives the oil pump.

Look at it if it doesn't look damaged, use it and check it fairly frequently or if that's going to be a bother, replace it with a new one.

The crank pulley always seeps, even if the pcv system is kept pristine. Water pumps are easy to do on a 240 and only require removing the top half of the outer cover. You don't lose any time by doing it later.

Bob

Reply to
volvowrench

On a carbureted redblock it also drives the mechanical fuel pump.

Reply to
James Sweet

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.