Vacuum Pump

I am looking for an electric vacuum pump. I understand that some of the mid-80s Volvo used them. What models? Where are they located on the car?

Thanks, Mark

Reply to
Mark Cook
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The turbo models had vacuum pumps located on the left wheel well in the engine compartment.

Reply to
Rod Gray

700 series turbos did anyway, I don't recall there being one in my 240.
Reply to
James Sweet

Hi Mark,

The cruise control on my '93 240 classic wagon has an electrically driven vacuum pump. It is located in the engine compartment, high up on the firewall (bulkhead), on the left-hand side (facing forward). There are three wires connected to it, Yellow/red, Orange, and Green or Green/Yellow. AFAIK this is also true for 240 models from '85 onward equipped with cruise control.

Good Luck. Andy I.

Reply to
brackenburn

First, thanks for all of the suggestions, I found one on turbo car.

Second, this one had 3 wires, red, black, and pink.

Red positive?

Black ground?

Pink??

Is there a regulator? Is it adjustable? Does it run all of the time?

Thanks again, Mark

Green/Yellow.

Reply to
Mark Cook

I also need cruise control information re. my '86 non-turbo 240.

Would a bad elec. vacuum motor cause this kind of failure....? Or what would be a likely cause?

My cruise control only works occasionally, and even then usually quits within 1-2 minutes. I've gone over the vacuum lines and don't see any problems there. It seems like an intermittent electrical problem. I've had cruise controls with a vacuum leak, which caused it an inability to maintain speed when a heavier "foot" was needed. This one usually won't activate at all, and then will cut out unexpectedly. No problem with maintaining speed when active.

It started out years ago as always working, then quitting occasionally, and finally now being unavailable most of the time.

Any help is appreciated.

Bruce Pick

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Reply to
Bruce Pick

Hook your foot under the brake pedal and pull it up, see what happens. If this fixes it, then adjust the brake pedal swith. (It's the one with the vacuum hose.)

Reply to
Mike F

Thanks - tried that already.

Do you know how to test the motor on the firewall front, and the signal going to it?

Bruce

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Mike F wrote:

Reply to
Bruce Pick

All my cruise control problems have been with the brake switch adjustment save 2. On one of my older 240s I had a dead computer, but I had 2 cars with identical cruise, so after testing the switches, I started swapping parts. The other problem involved the bulb failure! relay. Volvo cruise computers are grounded through the brake light bulbs. If all the bulbs are blown (or the bulb failure relay is bad) the cruise doesn't work.

Reply to
Mike F

Mike,

Thanks! If I recall, I may have dissaabled the bulb failure relay by snipping its output wire. I'll have to look.

Can you give any detail on the brake switch? I'd guess that since it grounds via the brake light, the cruise ctrl's brake switch probably breaks that ground to disable only the cruise ctrl's output to the "throttle". Leaves basic power to the Cr Ctrl active to maintain the speed set.

Can I manually force the switch to allow cruise control for testing, or test it with a meter?

Do you know how to test the firewall motor with a meter??

Thanks in advance, Bruce

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Mike F wrote:

Reply to
Bruce Pick

The output of the sensor doesn't matter. For the purpose of the cruise control only one brake light has to work.

There is one switch for the brake lights, and a second vacuum/electrical to both turn the cruise off electrically and dump the vacuum to release pressure on the throttle.

The electrical part should open/close as you push the plunger in and out, and the vacuum part should allow airflow with the plunger out and not allow it with the plunger in. At most about 1/16" should be showing on the plunger with the brake pedal up.

Sorry, no idea, I've never had to.

Reply to
Mike F

Thanks. We'll see how it goes. I'm having some much more major work done on it "as we speak", so I'll have a look at the Cruise Control once I get it back.

(It's getting a new head - at 360 K miles the head gasket leaked pressure from Cyl 1 -> Cyl 2, and testing after pulling the head showed that it was cracked. It hasn't overheated in a LONG time, so my guess is that the gasket held things together until now.)

Bruce

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Mike F wrote:

Reply to
Bruce Pick

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