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Volvo 245- 86 Motor B230A with carburator

Hi I have a very strange motor problem with my old Volvo-86 model 245 with motor 245A with carburator. (manual gearbox no fuel injection) After start the motor runs perfectly normal, it responds to more trottle and runs smoothly. After about 30 seconds it suddenly almost dies and starts to run very unstable or stops, hardly any responce to more throttle. If I restart it the same behaviour occurs so the fault situation is possibly to repeat. If I start it again at once the fault behaviour comes back a bit quicker and with a longer stop in about 30 seconds.

What I have already tryed to do Changed the ignition module (the little black transistor or thyristor box) "twice". Tryed with another ignition coil. Dismounted the carburator and checked it/cleaned it. Try to spray fuel direct into the carburator before the motor stops.(no improvement of the unstable behaviour) Dismounted the fuel pipe to see that gasoline comes to the carburator.

What I think more. Could the hall-element in the distributor cause this behaviour??

Have any one else seen this behaviour or found a solution? or have an good idea how to go on with the fault finding and diagnose.

Best regards Lennart from Sweden

Reply to
Lennart
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Hi Lennart.

I do also have the exact same engine than you, '86 model 244, and have had almost the same problem that you describes. I agrees with Vestman, with the list of things to check. That's the most basic things. However, I would like to add something to the list, because those things didn't solve my problem.

I had to replace my EGR valve and tubes on mine, because it was filled with filth(and water, pretty suprisingly), and the when I tested the EGR valve, by putting wacuum on it, it didn't move. The EGR valve's fuction is to open for some exhaust to be "burn" ones more and that is supposted to open and close depending on the temperature in the engine. This system is connected to the vacuum (carburator and the vacuum "clock"), and can cause that kind of behaviour.

The EGR-valve is located under the the carburator, mounted on the motor block. One tube is connected on the top of the ingoing manifoil, and the other goes around the engine, to the outgoing manifoil (exhaust system), between the engine and the firewall. Check for injuries or cracks on them as well.

Feel free to send mail directly to me at faane(a)webogdata.no, for description in Norwegian/Swedish.

Hope the information will be usefull.

Hälsning från Leiv Magne Faane, Norway '86 Volvo 244 GLE, B230A, 260000 km

Reply to
Leiv Magne Faane

Hi Leiv Magne Thanks for your suggestion with the EGR valve. I have already checked it, I can feel moving with my finger when i give more trottle. But when i read your answer I remember that there is a filter somwere in that area which might have to be cleaned. /Lennart PS: The strange thing with my problem is that it happens suddenly, like something get overheated and suddenly stops working.

"Leiv Magne Faane" skrev i meddelandet news:Dtb3b.24581$ snipped-for-privacy@news4.e.nsc.no...

Reply to
Lennart

You can check that the EGR-tubes that is connected to the EGR valve, has free flow (that the tubes are open, so you can blow through them). One of mine were all filled with burned particles along the sides inside of it, and the other only had about 2 mm hole through it, and it shoul be around 7-9 mm.

Hmm, I'm not sure that filter you are refering to, but from the top of the air filter, you probably got a thick rubber tube, going to the other side of the engine block, with a black cylinder formed plastic thing on it. That thing reminds me of some kind of filter. I don't know of any other filters, but I'm not a proffessional mechanics.

Strange. I can't say I actually let it run on idle to this happend for me, but mine could run smoothly untill I have had driven 200 meter, and then suddenly started to not respond when I tried to accellerate, and make my car jump like a animal, and I had to constantly keep the engine up around

1500-1800 rpm, to keep the engine running. And on long distanse trips, I could drive normally for hours, and then suddenly, the engine lost all power and died out. But when I started it, 2 seconds later everything worked fine again.

I'm not sure you have the same problem as I had. Problably not since you EGR valve worked as it should. I had to use a flat screewdriver and a hammer, to get it loose, so I think the previous owner didn't care must about his car, not as much as I do anyway. =)

I wish you the best of luck, and don't give up too soon.

- Leiv Magne Faane, Norway '86 Volvo 244 GLE, B230A, 260000 km

Reply to
Leiv Magne Faane

the fall effect sensor i had that problem,,, the car runs great untill it's warmed up , then at randome times it just cut's out and the tach drops like a stone. have you ever looked @ the tach? does it fall faster than the engine, aka the tach hit's 0 and the engine is still dieing? another way to tell is when you turn the engine over once the car is dead, does the tach twitch at all (a couple hundred rpm's)

if it's just cutting out a little bit here and there, then, does it help the bring up the rpms?

thoes were all signs of when mine went out. I hope this helped.

Gary

Reply to
Gary W

Hi I think I now have located my problem to the Hall element in the distributor. But then i runned into next problem, How to dismount the little metallic cup which rotates and gives the pulses to the sensor. I have removed the littel lock spring but the metal cup is stucked to the distributor-axel and i havent found a method to remove it without risk to brake it, anyone found a good method, I also tryed with som heat from a small propane burner. /Lennart from Sweden

"Lennart" skrev i meddelandet news:FC43b.25884$ snipped-for-privacy@newsc.telia.net...

Reply to
Lennart

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