1994 Jetta

The stopping, wait, restart, run some more sounds like my situation which turned out to be the fuel pump relay. Try swapping the fuel pump relay if you can get another one for testing. Or if you are going to keep the car, just buy a new one as you'll eventually need one.

For testing the in-tank pump, you'll need to make a special jumper switch (recommend adding a fuse). Get yourself a Bentley manual, it shows you how to make the jumper plus the test procedure and flow you should get.

On our '85 Golf, the 3 items related to fuel that failed at various times were the fuel pump relay, the transfer fuel pump (small one in the tank), and least frequently, the main fuel pump under the fuel tank.

Regarding the ring on top of the tank, search this forum, there are several solutions to get that ring off. I put a large screwdriver against a rib and tapped with a hammer.

Good luck.

Just replaced the fuel pump with a known good pump. Still does not start. After cranking about 5 seconds, it appears to want to start but mever does completely. Runs for a a second but dies out.. Help.

ignition coil?

On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 02:44:16 GMT, "confused" wrote: a shot in the dark - hows the air filter - any obstructions in the air intake?

I have replaced many an aftermarket ign coil that just did not provide a good enough spark. I ONLY buy the ign coils from the dealer!!!

When you pulled the spark plugs were they wet or black?

Of course I have seen diesel fuel in gas cars too. And they wondered why it would not start or run well! 8^o

later, dave (One out of many daves)

I am with Lost in Space on this......................Ign Coil! (buy from dealer only or you will be sorry!!) lol At least that is what it sounds like to me. The spark can't handle all of that fuel!

JMHO later, dave (One out of many daves)

Looking back thru the thread, I don't see the fuel filter at the engine mentioned. I would guess clogged fuel filter.

Yes it might be more than one problem. Maybe the Coolant Temperature Sensor for the fuel injection too. That might cause the engine to run rich too. Yeah you could change that too as you guess what could be wrong. It is not that expensive. ;-)

What happens when there is too much fuel not being burned.....................damage to 02 sensor and cat. conv along with debris on spark plugs. What color is the exhaust? Does it smell rich and is it black?

So did the ign. coil make it better? If so that is a start and you can cross that off your list of things that could be wrong! :-)

Check for any malfunction codes. Is it possible to read blinkcodes on the

What would a malfunctioning MAF Sensor do? I have yet to see a bad one!

later, dave (One out of many daves)

IN 02 should be a reminder to service the vehicle.

Well the scanner could help you determine what is wrong. Right now you are kinda guessing and that could be costly. Although when you change or do something and you see an improvement then it is good! ;-)

A clogged cat may also cause issues, but you would get little exhaust/pressure out of the tailpipe. Engine vacuum would drop.

Update.

The problem was caused by a crankshaft timing belt sprocket what the keyway was sheared off, gone, like it was never there. Of course, timing went everywhere. Replaced but being convinced by the sound when it ran last, that it bent every value in the head, I removed head and checked pistons, heads looked undamaged, but could see marks where the pistons where struck. Took head to a shop, they inspected it, checked tappet clearance, etc. Gave it a good bill of health. I reinstalled it, car ran horrible. Seemed very rich for almost a minute and tapped. Realized it just ran better and better noticed that the tap was gone, as the lifters pumped up. Runs extremely well when on the road driving. Stop at a light, it may lope a little and may eventually run fine or it will lope with greater extremes and quit.

(Now I find out that this problem existed before the timing belt failed. The solution was to keep the foot on the gas while stopped at a light. )

If you take it out of gear, it will smooth right out and run ok. Also if the disconnect the AIT sensor, warm up the engine with a 5 mile drive, it normally runs like it should. Does not like this cold weather until it is driven. Steady when driving and steady when stopping or stopped. Dave, you mentioned blink codes and reading these codes. I have borrowed a scanner which I am told will read obd1 codes. I think that is what I need. Where do you find the port that this scanner plugs into? Thanks again for your help.

If it's a 1994 model as stated in your previous post and you have a "check engine" light, you have OBD1. Don't need a scanner. Follow these instructions: