2000 Passat what is DTC's P0306?

P0306 is cyl#6 misfire.

Thermostat on a V-6 sucks. They should throw you a deal for T-belt and water pump with it, T-belt must be removed to access the thermostat.

Original owner should have a 100K/10year warranty on the engine. Would it cover the thermostat since AFAIK it is inside of the engine?

And BTW, I sometimes question what the dealer/others says is wrong. I know someone that was not getting heat in her 2001 Passat V6. Dealer said she needed a new thermostat and water pump for $1600 with no guarantee of heat.

2 Radiator shops said it needed a heater core. Engine temperature was normal, stayed in the middle after it warmed up with no overheating or running too cool. I flushed out and bled the heater core and all is good.

SO IF the dealer does it free then let them do the work. If they are charging you too much for something.............make sure it makes sense BEFORE agreeing to the job being done!

Your P0306 issue has been answered I believe.

thanks for the reply, the car has 76,000 miles, vw recommends a timing belt at 105,000

sounds like I should I replace the timing belt and water pump? in terms of the belt should I get the belt kit that Includes: 1) 078 109 119J Timing Belt 1) 078 109 243R Tensioning Roller 1) 078 109 244H Relay Roller 1) N 017

717 6 8x40mm Hex Socket Head Screw (Proper Torque 7.4 ft lbs.) b) N 010 254 14 10x25mm Head Head Screw ??

also is there a special tool to remove the spark plug wires? I am thinking of doing the plugs myself.

thinking of having another shop do the work I need to pay for and have vw do the warranty work.

thanks

You need to see if VW will warranty that thermostat! I have a tool to pull the VR6 spark plug wires off of the plugs but I think I used either a generic spark plug boot puller or another tool when I replace the plugs on a 1996 Audi V6 engine. I don't think I needed any tool to pull up the wires on a 1999 Audi V6 engine.

So I am not sure if you need a tool for your 2000 Passat V6 engine. YES do the plugs yourself but make sure you replace them with VW authorized plugs. You may want to check what the engine currently has and buy some identical ones, if you like them. ;-)

Unless someone has removed them, each bank should have an orange plastic puller tool on one of the boot caps.

Hmmm well someone removed them then. I don't recall seeing one of those! thanks, One out of many daves

is FR 7 LDC+ the factory authorized spark plug?

VW part # 101-000-035-HJ NGK brand P/N: BKR6EKUB VW factory plugs for this engine are made by NGK.

Yes what LG said, NGK That Bosch FR7LDC is probably a copper based plug and it probably won't give you the performance that you are looking for, but the Bosch should be cheap plugs to buy! ;-)

when I go to order spark plugs online the part number is

BKR6EKUB

then when I add it to the cart the part number is

BKUR6ET-10

will this work or do I need the BKR6EKUB

also I checked with VW and the thermostat is not covered under warranty.

Also I should investigate the thermostat error, I had the radiator replaced several months ago, I want to be sure that this is not an error that is leftover from the time I had the radiator replaced, or maybe the system wasn't bled correctly.

Thanks

Call up the place you are trying to order the spark plugs from and ask them! Did you go here to order from?

Adirondack Auto Brokers Inc.

10 Corporate Drive Halfmoon, NY 12065 Phone: Mon-Fri 8:00 AM-6:00 PM EST 518-899-7807 Toll free 1-877-4GERMAN (1-877-443-7626)

Yes you should bleed the cooling system from the bleeder hose on the heater hose. It is marked with a white line with a white circle. What is the problem? No heat?

I'll look into the cooling system this weekend.

Back to sparkplugs...

The NGK site has a search feature for plugs per car and this is what it came up with

Iridium BKR6EIX Platinum BKR6EGP Multi Ground BKR6EQUP V-Power BKR6E

which plug should I use? the multiground?

Multi-ground Some combustion chamber designs (such as a rotary motor) require that the spark plugs have the ground electrode placed to the side of the center electrode rather than below as on a traditional plug (see photo). This firing tip design tends to erode the tip of the ground electrode faster than a traditional plug, erosion at these points creates a larger gap between the center and ground electrodes causing plug misfire. Thus by having more ground electrodes you extend plug life. It is important to note that multi-ground does not mean multi-spark, there will still only be one spark at a time. Therefore a multi-ground plug will not perform any better and may actually perform worse than a traditional plug, unless the engine is designed for a multiple ground plug.

IF I was choosing I would probably try the BKR6EIX (IX iridium) OR the BKR6EGP (GP platinum) That is if the ones you listed were the only choices.

What are you looking for the spark plugs to do extra?

the BKR6EIX (IX iridium) and the BKR6EGP (GP platinum) are not multi ground plugs

I am not looking for the plug to do anything eextra, I am just looking to order plugs and opened a can of worms.

Thanks

AHml.18071$ snipped-for-privacy@nlpi065.nbdc.sbc.com...

I have a 2000 Passat V6 that likes to lose heat (blows cold air) at

1800 rpm and lower like when I stop for a red light, but as soon as I hit 1800 and higher she blows hot again. any thoughts? I also need to replace plugs...93,000... but I don't think I want to go there.

Then again I would vote for the BKR6EIX (IX iridium) spark plugs! ;-)

Low on coolant, air in cooling system, partially clogged heater core, defective water pump or ???

I would first try flushing out the heater core or better yet having the cooling system professional flushed out. My reasoning...........if the heater core is partially clogged then it will not get hot enough unless the flow of hot coolant increases.

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snip

I have a 2000 Passat V6 that likes to lose heat (blows cold air) at

1800 rpm and lower like when I stop for a red light, but as soon as I hit 1800 and higher she blows hot again. any thoughts? I also need to replace plugs...93,000... but I don't think I want to go there.

has plenty of fluid but I will try having the system flushed. could it be vacuum related? my reasoning... low vac. at idle, boosts upon acceleration.? side note, not sure this is related but air conditioning acts funny also. cold air goes in and out just like heat and i hear weird noises like internal vents are opening and closing. I did fill the a/c and the cheap gauge reads warning zone, but don't know I you can trust those gauges... but obviously something is not right.