92 Jetta. Might purchase. What to look out for???

Maybe my first VW. Looking at a 92 Jetta GL. 225k. Manual. Gas. Busted door handle. Leaky sunroof. Haven't driven yet.

Any basic or recurring engine/tranny/critical probs to look listen for as I give this car the once over?? Not routine maintence type stuff, mind you. Dangerous or otherwise expensive is what I mean :-) Also MPG's allegedly average 25 City. True for you guys? Thanks in advance.

Dr C.

Reply to
Dr. Chicago
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Door handle is a $15 fix.

yeah that's about right. My '91 GTI (basically the same engine) gets 29-30 in commuting so in all-city I'd say 25 is realistic.

honestly there's not much inherently wrong w/these cars. 225K miles though will mean that if the engine has never had any valve or head work, it might be due for something. the engine will go forever but at this age expect some oil consumption. Mine (195K miles) gives a nice big POOF! of blue smoke on cold startups after it's been sitting overnight (but otherwise doesn't smoke that I know of) and every couple of weeks I have to put a quart of oil in it but otherwise it's as spunky as ever.

Many maintenance parts are pretty cheap. Brake pads, $30. Brake rotors, $50. Voltage regulator $40, etc.

Reply to
Matt B.

I have a '92 Jetta GL 5speed and I think the MPG is a little low. I get 33 city 36 highway, of course this will depend on how you drive shift point etc... Unlike MatB mine has 175,000 and never uses any oil. I bought this car in '95 with 62,000 miles and after putting on 113,000 more there has been no problems with it, just routine maintenance type things.

Any basic or recurring engine/tranny/critical probs to look listen for as I give this car the once over?? Not routine maintence type stuff, mind you. Dangerous or otherwise expensive is what I mean :-) Also MPG's allegedly average 25 City. True for you guys? Thanks in advance.

Dr C.

Reply to
Archangel

Rust can be a real detriment for a car of that age. Look for it around the windshield, lower quarter panels, etc.. If rust has taken over, the cost to repair it may be prohibitive. Where is that car located? I bought my '88 Cabbie from a guy in Atlanta, where roads are never salted. It had zero rust.

Reply to
Papa

Car was in Michigan. Cosmetics are NOT any issue whatsoever.

Papa wrote:

Reply to
Dr. Chicago

wow that's really good! I can get closer to that driving, say, 60-65mph but I usually drive 70-75 (you sort of have to on SoCal freeways lest you get run over from behind).

Reply to
Matt B.

Cosmetics are not an issue? Do you mean it is rust free? If it is a rust bucket (I'm not saying it is), it's more than just "cosmetics" and is definitely an issue.

Reply to
Papa

I usually drive about 70 on highways also, of course if I creep up to 80 or more those numbers drop quite a bit, but the car rides so nice at that speed.

Reply to
Archangel

Reply to
none2u

Reply to
Dr. Chicago
3 qts oil in the trunk. Bottle of radiator stop leak too. Found a receipt for antifreeze in the pocket from a month ago. Reservoir is dry. Do these damn things have radiator caps or not??? Where? On the bottom? :-) Dude said he only put 100 miles on it. Said he had too many cars. Only wants his money out of it. It's in TN. Michigan plates that expired Jan 2006. Slights fishy if I do say so myself. Guy never called back. Still haven't driven or started car. Only sat in and looked at. I'm 35. Prom is nothing but a dirty ole mans dream at this point!!! :-)

Kevin

none2u wrote: See if the

Reply to
Dr. Chicago

Reply to
none2u

Either get it for a real good price and plan on doing work to it, or move on.

Just my 2 cents.

Good Luck. z

Reply to
zatatime

the overflow bottle is the cap...and unlike most overflow bottles it's pressurized like a cap would be on a regular radiator.

there's also no drain. you have to remove the lower hose to drain it. (yes this is a silly design IMO but VW has been doing it this way for probably 25 years now.)

Reply to
Matt B.

yeah this one is starting to sound like trouble...or at least has some issues.

Reply to
Matt B.

Do a compression check each cylinder. Look for oil leaks. Examine the spark plugs while doing compression check. Check for fluids where they don't belong. IE antifreeze in the oil, oil in the antifreeze, loss of antifreeze but no visible loss location can be found, smell of antifreeze inside the car when heater is used.

Pull the fuel line just before the fuel pump, its contents can reveal a contaminated fuel tank. The contamination can affect the entire fuel system, be it rust and/or water in the gas, or very old gas.

Check the shifter linkages. Rack and pinion steering assy. Other steering components. Mash and rebound on struts. The clutch can go at anytime without any warning sign on an older VW.

Reply to
Jonny

yeah what Jonny said look for any wet spots under the engine and transmission. I have seen some transmissions self machine holes in them. :-( check the color and odor out of the exhaust. uhhhh do this very briefly and don't inhale.....much. ;-) you don't want an oil burner nor gas burner!! wires around the intake manifold or cylinder head like to break.

listen to the main fuel pump under the right rear of the vehicle just in front of the tire. buzz should be faint.

Check out the body for rust or other issues. You said the sunroof leaks? check that floor!!

You might be able to pull more than 25 mpg out of it even in the city. Oh and buy cheap!

Reply to
One out of many daves

I asked the question and well...dude won't call back. Been over there

2 times and called and left 3-4 messages. Oh well. Cruel fate ;-) Thanks for all the help, gang. Much obliged.

Kevin

Reply to
Dr. Chicago

Probably to your best interest, if the potential buyer isn't supplying information, to drop it. Probably hiding something or more than just one something.

Reply to
Jonny

Agree. Maybe he's reading RAMVW and is scared to make the deal now that the chit is out in the open. :)

Reply to
Peter Parker

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